High on a hill overlooking the sprawling metropolis of Mexico City sits Santa María Tepepan. It’s a place where time seems to slow down. Echoes of ancient rituals mingle with the sounds of modern life. Santa María Tepepan, one of the original fourteen pueblos of Xochimilco, holds a rich and layered history. Its name, derived from Nahuatl, translates to “on top of the hill,” a fitting description for its location on the slopes of Xochitepec Hill.
Santa María Tepepan’s story begins long before the Spanish conquest. Archaeological evidence suggests the area was inhabited by various cultures dating back to the pre-classical period. Remnants of these early inhabitants, such as molcajetes and tezontle tools, have been discovered, hinting at their daily lives. Later, during the post-classical period, the Xochimilcas controlled the region until the Mexica expansion led by Acamapichtli around 1381 CE. A basalt statue of Xipe Totec, the Flayed God, unearthed in Santa María Tepepan, offers a glimpse into the religious practices of this era. The statue, dated to 1507, underscores the importance of agriculture to the community.
The arrival of the Spanish brought significant changes. According to local tradition, Friar Pedro de Gante founded Santa María Tepepan in 1526. He established a shrine to house an icon of Nuestra Señora Santa María de los Remedios. Some believe this icon is the same one still displayed in the church today. Another version of the founding story suggests the town was rapidly built in a single day and night. The purpose was to prevent Viceroy Luis de Velasco from using the land for cattle grazing. Regardless of the precise details, the shrine’s presence solidified Santa María Tepepan’s importance. By 1623, its church had become the central church for seven surrounding towns.
Santa María Tepepan’s independent spirit shone through in 1652. The inhabitants revolted against Xochimilco’s authorities, protesting against forced labor practices. This successful rebellion granted the town autonomy. It allowed them to elect their own mayors and manage their own affairs. This period coincided with a period of growth, with the town expanding into eight distinct neighborhoods.
The 17th century also saw the construction of the current church, Santa María de la Visitación. This church, completed by 1697, replaced the earlier shrine. It became a focal point for pilgrims. The original icon of the Virgin of the Remedies was preserved. An image of the Virgin of Guadalupe was also added, likely to appease the growing popularity of this Mexican saint.
Despite its prominent position as a stop between Mexico City, Tlalpan, and Xochimilco, Santa María Tepepan’s influence waned by the mid-18th century. Conflicts between Franciscan friars and landowners likely contributed to this decline. The town’s growth stagnated. Its economic focus shifted from agriculture to horse and cattle raising. The 20th century brought further transformation. The 1985 earthquake triggered a wave of urbanization, changing Santa María Tepepan from a rural town to a suburban residential area.
Today, Santa María Tepepan stands as a testament to its resilient past. Its winding cobblestone streets and the imposing presence of the church offer a tangible connection to its rich history. The echoes of ancient rituals, colonial struggles, and modern development intertwine within this unique pueblo, creating a captivating narrative for all who visit.