Hidden high above the city stands Passage des Gloriettes. Its very existence is a testament to Lyon’s enduring spirit. This isn’t just any passage. It’s a survivor. A scar on the hillside a silent witness to time.
Passage des Gloriettes began as a humble passageway. Two walls remained after the mid-19th century. These ancient walls defined the boundaries of a property. They left a narrow gap between them. A space for passage. This passage once stretched further. It began lower down the Montée Bonafous. It connected different parts of this bustling hillside community.
Life in this passage changed in 1981. A dramatic landslide devastated the area around Cours Herbouville. The original entrance to Passage des Gloriettes was destroyed. It was rebuilt into the new retaining wall. A stark reminder of nature’s power. The rebuilt passage is impressive. Two platforms comprise its accessible section. Strong concrete buttresses support the wider platform. A closed staircase gives access for security purposes. This leads to buildings clinging to the hillside.
Above this sturdy structure is a kind of balcony. It’s bordered by a garden wall and a railing. It offers incredible views. One can see across eastern Lyon. Rillieux hill and its water tower are visible. The vast greenery of the Parc de la Tête d’Or is spread out below. The sixth and third arrondissements stretch before the eye. A line of bridges across the Rhône River completes the view. The rooftops of the Presqu’île shimmer in the distance.
A green iron gate seals off the exit towards Montée Soulary. Beyond it one can glimpse a narrow staircase. It’s nestled between garden walls covered in roses. A secret passage almost completely hidden from view.
Passage des Gloriettes’ name speaks of glory. It refers to small houses that once marked the corner of a property wall. These ‘gloriettes’ were mentioned as early as 1696. They appear on a copy of an old plan of the area. These small houses have long since vanished. Passage des Gloriettes remains their echo. A quiet testament to a vibrant past. A passageway that has endured despite landslides and the passage of centuries. Its hidden staircase and balcony offer a glimpse into Lyon’s fascinating past. It’s a reminder that even in a modern city hidden pockets of history endure.