“Hemp field” you say? That’s the literal translation of “Canebière” from Provençal. Welcome to the Canebière in Marseille. This legendary street has a rich history. It’s marked by trade pomp wealth and even old-fashioned costumes.
La Canebière stretches from the Vieux-Port to the Église des Réformés. It is probably the best-known avenue in Marseille.
Let’s step back in time. Imagine Marseille as one of the world’s largest hemp trading posts. They made slings and ropes for sailing ships here. The name Canebière comes from this very activity. It evolved from the Latin word “cannabis” meaning hemp.
King Louis XIV ordered the construction of this arterial road in the mid-17th century. It happened when the city expanded. Initially the Canebière was shorter. It ran between Cours Saint-Louis and the arsenal des Galères.
Luxury shops popped up between 1743 and 1751. Perfumeries bookstores and confectioneries lined the street. Later in 1785 the Canebière stretched to the Vieux-Port. This happened after the Galleys’ arsenal closed.
The Canebière assumed its current appearance mainly during the Second Empire in the 19th century. In 1928 the Canebière officially extended to the Église des Réformés. Today you can see three distinct sections. Each section reflects different styles and town planners’ visions.
The Canebière was once the place to shop. Those days are sadly gone. However the Canebière remains a must-see for locals and tourists alike. It is a pretty tree-shaded boulevard. Majestic buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries line it.
As you stroll notice the mix of familiar brands and independent boutiques. The west end near Vieux Port offers clothing and accessories. Fashionable establishments spread from La Canebière down Rue de Rome and Rue Paradis.
Climbing the hill you will discover cheese shops cafes and bakeries. Sample navettes. They are traditional Marseille pastries shaped like boats. They have an orange blossom flavor.
Admire the architecture. Look at the wrought-iron balconies and colorful shutters. You can see a brightly painted carousel in Place du Général-de-Gaulle. Live music often fills the air on weekends. The Church of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul adds neogothic glamor at the opposite end. It has beautiful stained glass and mosaic floors.
Take the subway to reach La Canebière. Use the M1 line to Réformés Canebière station. Alternatively use the M2 line to Noailles station. The T2 streetcar runs up and down the street. It stops between Cours Saint Louis and Réformés Canebière. This gives you time to admire the scenery.
Explore the roads branching from La Canebière. Find a lively food market where Rue Longues-des-Capucins heads south. Galeries Lafayette is just north on Rue de Bir Hakeim.
At the bottom near the Vieux Port see the public sculpture L’Ombrière de Norman Foster. You can also visit the Marseille Soap Museum. The Canebière has seen decline. King Alexander I of Yugoslavia was assassinated here in 1934. A fire decimated the Nouvelles Galeries store in 1938. The avenue has been refurbished in recent years. New businesses are setting up shop again.
So as you wander along this vibrant avenue remember its past. From hemp fields to high society the Canebière has stories etched into its very stones. Take a moment. Feel the pulse of Marseille’s history beneath your feet.