Hidden within Marseille’s bustling heart lies Chemin du Vallon de Barasse. A seemingly quiet path it holds a rich and surprisingly industrial past.
Chemin du Vallon de Barasse isn’t just a road. It’s a gateway to a forgotten chapter in Marseille’s history. For over half a century this unassuming road witnessed the rise and fall of an enormous industrial complex. The remains of massive lime kilns stand as silent sentinels near the start of the path. These kilns weren’t just any kilns. They were integral to the processing of alumina at a Péchiney plant.
This plant one of three major alumina production facilities in the area operated from 1903. It processed bauxite from Allauch and Var mines. The scale of this operation was breathtaking. Imagine the sheer size of these kilns their foundations still visible today next to a boules court.
But the story of Chemin du Vallon de Barasse is not solely about industrial might. It’s also about environmental consequences. The plant initially dumped its red mud waste near the Huveaune River. A 1943 flood however exposed the dangers of this practice. The resulting pollution prompted a change. The waste was then redirected up the Vallon de Barasse. This created a massive 60-meter-high embankment of red mud. The mud was transported via a pipeline and a remarkable system of cable cars and tunnels. Remnants of this cable car system are still visible today.
This practice continued until 1966 when Péchiney gained permission to discharge its waste directly into the sea. Even then the story doesn’t end. In the early 1990s Péchiney covered the red mud with topsoil and planted trees. The Department des Bouches du Rhone eventually acquired the land from Péchiney. Heavy rains in 2004 threatened to destabilize the embankment requiring significant intervention to prevent further environmental damage.
Today Chemin du Vallon de Barasse offers a blend of nature and history. The area boasts a rich Mediterranean flora. You’ll also find the remains of an old sheepfold ancient terraces and even the wall of a former Forbin family estate. This prominent family had members who presided over the Parliament of Provence in the 17th century. Their chateau is clearly visible below offering a stunning panorama.
The views from Chemin du Vallon de Barasse are spectacular. You can see across the Huveaune valley taking in the entire city of Marseille. This path a walk through time offers a unique perspective on Marseille’s industrial past environmental challenges and enduring natural beauty. It’s a journey into a world of contrasts a testament to Marseille’s complex and captivating history.