“What secrets does a path hold when its name echoes through centuries?” I ask, my voice soft as we gather at the entrance of Sentier du Bertou. This isn’t just a path. It is a journey through time etched into the very stones beneath our feet.
Sentier du Bertou is located in the dynamic 2nd district of Paris. It is delimited by several prominent streets. These include Rue Montmartre, Boulevard de Sébastopol, and Rue Réaumur. The Sentier began with the building of city walls during the Hundred Years War. A hamlet appeared in the 15th century. It was near the gate of Saint-Denis.
Imagine, if you will, a Paris far removed from the glittering city we know today. In medieval times, without bins or sewers, some inhabitants threw their waste against the old city wall. Always in the same spot, this practice created a hill. It reached 10 meters high. A windmill was even built on top of it.
This unusual landmark gave rise to a hamlet called Villeneuve sur Gravois. It literally means “the New City on Gravel”. Houses and vineyards sprung up and trails led to the infamous garbage hill. These trails, or “sentiers” in French, may have given the area its name. Another theory suggests the name comes from walks around the city walls. Hence, Sentier du Bertou.
In 1591, the garbage hill was destroyed. King Henri IV feared rebels would use it to set up canons against him. Later, in 1628, the Notre-Dame-de-Bonne-Nouvelle church was built. It was restored in the 19th century.
The Sentier became known for the Court of Miracles in the 17th century. This counter-society housed around 30000 people. They had their own king, laws, and slang. Beggars and thieves ruled this fortified slum. Beggars pretended to be sick to gain sympathy. Once back in their lair, they were miraculously healed.
King Louis XIV sought to destroy this challenge to his authority. He appointed La Reynie, the first police lieutenant of Paris. In 1667, La Reynie besieged the Court of Miracles. He threatened to hang the last 12 beggars captured. This caused a panic and the beggars fled. Parisians rejoiced. They called the destruction “bonne nouvelle,” or good news. This expression later named the nearby metro station.
From the 17th century, craftsmen settled in the Sentier. By the 19th century, ready-to-wear manufacturers replaced them. This textile specialization boomed in the 1980s. Waves of immigrants arrived. These included Jews, Turks, Armenians, and Asians. The area’s clothing industry was depicted in the 1997 film La Vérité si je mens.
Today, the Chinese community has grown in the clothing district. But, the area has diversified. Many data centers and start-ups have moved in. This earned it the nickname “Silicone Sentier”.
Even Mozart and his mother stayed in the Sentier in 1778. His mother even died there. The building was part of a mansion belonging to Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun. She was a famous painter known for her portraits of Marie Antoinette.
As we stand here on Sentier du Bertou, remember that you’re walking through layers of Parisian history. From a literal garbage dump to a hub of innovation, this district embodies Paris’s ever-evolving spirit. The echoes of kings, beggars, artists, and entrepreneurs resonate around us, creating a unique symphony of the past and present. Take a moment to listen. What stories will Sentier du Bertou whisper to you?