Hidden within Paris’s 2nd arrondissement lies the Passage du Grand-Cerf. A captivating covered passageway it connects Rue Saint-Denis with Rue Dussoubs. This isn’t just any alleyway. Its history is rich and its architecture stunning.
The Passage du Grand-Cerf wasn’t always a charming shopping arcade. It stands on the site of the Hoterllerie du Grand Cerf. That hotel was demolished in 1825 to make way for the fashionable covered passageways. During the Second Empire as many as 150 were built. Today only a handful survive. The Passage du Grand-Cerf is one of the few remaining.
Its name refers to the wooden stag’s head that once hung in the alleyway. Other animals like a crab an elephant and a dragonfly also adorned the shopfronts. Look for them on your next visit. The passage opened to the public as early as 1827. This iconic spot even appeared in the 1960 film Zazie Dans le Metro.
Initially the passage housed artisans and craftsmen not luxury boutiques. The metallic structure allowed for two levels of glass-fronted shops. The third floor housed living quarters. The Passage du Grand-Cerf is remarkably high 12 meters to be exact. The glass ceiling floods the passage with light.
The passage has faced hardship. Neglect threatened to close it permanently. In 1985 however three companies stepped in to save it. The shops were restored. Living quarters above were renovated. The original facades glass roofs and wooden shopfronts were preserved.
Today the Passage du Grand-Cerf is a unique blend of old and new. Original boutiques and independent shops still thrive. Furniture stores and handmade jewelry shops attract visitors. The passage even has a shop playfully named Pas Sage meaning “not wise” or “naughty”. A testament to its enduring charm it is one of the last great covered passages of Paris.