“A hidden gem,” the old woman whispered, her voice barely audible above the Parisian bustle. “That’s what they call it.”
Right before us, sandwiched between the vibrant Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine and the bustling Rue de Charonne, lies the Passage de la Main Ferme. The name, meaning “Passage of the Closed Hand,” might initially seem a bit dour. But don’t let it fool you. This passage holds a charm that’s uniquely Parisian. Imagine stepping back in time as we stroll its length. This narrow lane, stretching a modest 250 meters, feels worlds away from the city’s grand boulevards.
Passage de la Main Ferme was once known as the “Cour de la Main-d’Or,” taking its name from an ancient inn that graced its corner. Sadly, the passage doesn’t reveal exactly when the “Golden Hand” became the “Closed Hand,” but it’s this air of mystery that adds to its allure. The passage is bisected by the equally charming Rue de la Main-d’Or, a narrow street that seems to whisper secrets from a bygone era.
As you wander further into the passage, be sure to pause at number 15. This building, with its ornate archway, is the Cité Dupuy. Step through its doors, and you’ll find yourself transported to the 19th century. The Cité Dupuy, built in 1880, was once a hive of activity for Parisian artisans. Today, echoes of that vibrant past linger in the workshops of bronze craftsmen and the vibrant performances of the Théâtre de la Main d’Or, a hidden gem within this hidden gem.