Around 4 AM the trucks rumble into Mercado La Nueva Viga. This is the largest seafood market in Mexico. It’s also the second largest in the world. Imagine the sheer volume of fish arriving daily.
La Nueva Viga isn’t just a market. It’s a vital part of Mexico City’s history. Seafood distribution has centered in Mexico City for centuries. Even before the Spanish conquest. People here have always enjoyed seafood from across the country. The original La Viga Market was near the La Viga Canal. The canal linked the lakes of Chalco and Xochimilco to San Lázaro. The city’s growth led to the creation of La Nueva Viga in the mid-1990s. The old market still exists but it’s smaller. La Nueva Viga handles a massive 1500 tons of seafood each day. That’s about 60% of the total Mexican market.
The sounds are amazing. Shouts of merchants blend with the rhythmic chop of knives. Mountains of fish are gutted and prepared. Around 7500 people work here many from coastal areas. They are used to the strong smell of fish which permeates everything. The market extends over 9.2 hectares. It boasts 202 wholesale warehouses 55 retail warehouses and 165 sellers. Some warehouses are even certified for excellent handling practices. Besides seafood you’ll find kitchen supplies groceries and even banks.
The variety of seafood is breathtaking. Around 300 different fresh and frozen species are sold daily. Another 100 imported frozen varieties are available. Everything from the most popular shrimp and mojarra to sharks and manta rays is here. Even the heads and bones are used to make stock or croquettes minimizing waste. Lent is the busiest season. Sales can reach 2500 tons per day. Federal health officials inspect the market to ensure food safety.
Most of the seafood is domestic. However some comes from five continents. Most domestic seafood comes from the Gulf of Mexico. 70% of the product goes to Mexico City and surrounding states. The rest is exported. The market faces challenges. Sales of domestically produced seafood have declined. This is partly due to competition from cheaper imports like tilapia from China. It is also because of a lack of promotion by the government. The market itself needs renovation due to deterioration. Lack of public transport is also a problem. Despite these challenges La Nueva Viga remains a remarkable place a testament to Mexico’s rich culinary heritage. Its energy and scale are simply astonishing.