Hidden within the 18th arrondissement of Paris lies Avenue Rachel. A short street only 104 meters long it holds a captivating history. Named after the famed French tragedienne Elisabeth Rachel Felix its name echoes through time. Initially known as Avenue du Cimetière it led to the main entrance of Montmartre Cemetery. This was long before it was annexed to Paris in 1859. The avenue’s name changed again to Avenue du Cimetière-du-Nord before finally settling on its current designation in 1899.
Avenue Rachel’s history isn’t just about names. During the German occupation Captain Paul Sézille wanted to mark it with a yellow star. This was due to Rachel’s Jewish heritage. His plan thankfully never came to fruition. More recently in 2020 news reports highlighted problems with prostitution and violence along the avenue. Residents voiced concerns about the situation.
The avenue boasts some notable residents. General d’aviation Jacques Collombet lived there. So did the architect Louis Brassart-Mariage in 1918. Even André Malraux resided there after World War I. He frequented the nearby Lapin Agile and Moulin Rouge. However as his success grew he moved to the more luxurious Hotel Lutetia in Montparnasse. Montmartre’s allure faded for him.
The architecture along Avenue Rachel is varied. It includes beautiful buildings dating from around 1900. These face the Boulevard de Clichy. On one side you’ll find Corcoran’s Irish Pub. On the other you’ll find the American Bar. These cater to tourists and football fans alike. The building at number 2 is a remarkable example. It was designed by the architect Henri Petit. Petit also designed buildings in Algiers in a neo-Moorish style.
Number 7 and 9 are striking. Sculptures of Medusa and Hercules adorn their entrances. Medusa wards off unwanted visitors. Hercules reminds any ill-intentioned people of the potential consequences. Number 8 houses artists’ studios. They were built in 1930 by Ulysse Moussali. Moussali also designed the Pavilion of the Levant States. This was at the 1937 Arts and Techniques exhibition. Number 12 showcases Art Nouveau architecture. It was designed by J J Desclers. Desclers’ design for the Rotonde de Thaon-les-Vosges is considered a masterpiece.
Avenue Rachel ends at the entrance to Montmartre Cemetery. Despite its proximity to the bustling Boulevard de Clichy and Pigalle the avenue remains peaceful. It serves as a quiet transition between the living and the dead. A place of both vibrant life and solemn reflection. A fitting tribute to the life and legacy of Rachel herself.