How did a quiet Parisian street become a symbol of gentrification? Welcome to Rue Polonceau in the 18th arrondissement. This unassuming street in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood has a rich history. It once served the five windmills atop Butte des Couronnes. Its name changed many times. It was known as Chemin des Cinq-Moulins Rue des Meuniers Chemin des Couronnes and finally Rue des Couronnes. Rue Polonceau honors Antoine Rémy Polonceau and his son Jean Barthélémy Camille. They were engineers who worked nearby. Their legacy is woven into the fabric of this street.
The street is primarily residential. You’ll find a mix of architectural styles here. Elegant Haussmannian buildings stand alongside 1960s and 1970s structures and even some modest HLM housing from the 1980s and 1990s. Surprisingly some houses even have small gardens a rare sight in Paris.
Rue Polonceau has undergone significant gentrification. Real estate prices have soared. In 2022 prices averaged around €8280 per square meter. Number 51 commanded the highest prices at nearly €9600 per square meter. This reflects the changing character of the neighborhood. The nearby Villa Poissonnière and Square Léon contribute to its residential appeal. These green spaces are valuable assets in a densely populated area. They enhance the desirability of the area for residents and buyers alike.
The street also boasts a fascinating past. Number 24 was once home to Louise Michel a prominent French anarchist and revolutionary. A plaque commemorates her residence although her memoirs cite a different address. Number 41 provides access to the Villa Poissonnière where the singer-songwriter Alain Bashung once lived. Number 15bis houses the workshop of fashion designer Karim Bonnet. His impressive two-story workshop door is a standout feature.
One striking chapter in Rue Polonceau’s history involved the Al-Fath Mosque. It was located opposite number 56. Its Friday prayers often spilled onto the street causing traffic disruptions. The mosque eventually closed in 2011. A new mosque was built on Boulevard Ney. The Al-Fath building was demolished. The site was intended to become the Institut des Cultures d’Islam. This project however was abandoned. Now a community garden thrives on the site managed by the association La Table ouverte.
Today Rue Polonceau offers a blend of history. Its past as a working-class neighborhood is now part of a new narrative. It shows the ongoing tension between the preservation of heritage and the forces of modernization and gentrification that reshape the urban landscape. Walking down this street is a journey through time. You experience a story of change and adaptation. It is a reflection of the dynamism of Parisian life.