Sentier de la Côte

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“A smuggler’s path?” you whisper, your voice barely audible above the gentle Parisian breeze. Yes, right here, the Sentier de la Côte whispers tales of daring smugglers and vigilant customs officers. Today, we call it the GR34. But imagine this serene path as it was centuries ago: a stage for a high-stakes game of cat and mouse. The Sentier de la Côte, established in 1791 in Brittany, is more than just a scenic coastal route. It’s a time capsule. It takes us back to 17th-century France, when Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV’s finance minister, erected steep tariffs to protect French industries. This sparked a wave of smuggling along the coast. The Sentier de la Côte became the patrol route for customs officers, tasked with enforcing Colbert’s tariffs. These officers had to brave all weather, day and night, patrolling the path, seeking hidden coves perfect for illicit landings. Their mission? Tax Anglo-Dutch goods. Stop the smuggling of coveted commodities like salt. And prevent the looting of shipwrecks, which, by law, belonged to the state. As we stand here, on the Sentier de la Côte, picture those customs officers. They’re concealed in their carefully chosen hiding spots, their eyes scanning the horizon. They watch for any sign of illicit activity, their presence a constant threat to the smugglers’ plans. This path, once walked by those seeking to evade the law, is now a beloved hiking trail. It stretches over 2,000 kilometers. The Sentier de la Côte offers stunning views and a glimpse into a rich history. So next time you walk this path, remember its hidden past. The echoes of smugglers and customs officers still linger, adding another layer of intrigue to its beauty.

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