Rue Molière

Did Molière ever imagine a street named after him in Lyon? Rue Molière stretches southward from Place Lyautey to Rue de Bonnel. It faces the imposing gates of the prefecture. The street’s architecture tells a tale of two centuries. Most of the buildings lining Rue Molière date back to the 19th century. Their uniformity is striking. Number 56 was built in 1865. The building on the corner of Rue Vauban followed in 1885. Near Place Lyautey, the buildings reach a proud seven stories. Further down, they settle to a more modest four or five. While decoration is minimal, most windows boast ornate capitals or shades. These feature faces or arabesques. The doorways are captivating, adorned with various door knockers. The peculiar siren-lion knocker at number 37 is especially intriguing. A few Virgin Mary statues grace the facades, notably at numbers 11 and 46. At the intersection with Rue Cuvier, architectural styles clash. A modern building with a graceful curve of balconies stands opposite a geometric 1940s structure. This older building features stained glass at its entrance. Some buildings appear older still. Number 27, a simpler four-story structure, and the three-story number 33 stand as testaments to an earlier era. The ironwork on some balconies is simply beautiful, like the one at number 32. At number 36, the Federation of Banks occupies a small private mansion with a beautiful wooden gate. Number 60 boasts the most impressive doorway on the street. Four well-crafted relief portraits adorn the space above. Number 71, bearing the inscription “Salut Public” along with lions and the dates 1848 and 1892, has been converted into apartments. Closer to Rue Rabelais, newer, less elegant buildings appear. They maintain the street’s general alignment and volume. Number 78 is an exception. Its seven concrete stripes and horizontal vents are an eyesore. Garage doors dominate the ground floor. Exiting Rue Molière onto Rue de Bonnel, number 97 presents an austere three-story annex of the prefecture. It’s set back in a courtyard behind a wall. During my 2013 visit, this annex was replaced by a new building clad in dark wood. To see the devil guarding the entrance, you must go to the opposite corner. Molière’s connection to Lyon began in 1652. He and his troupe performed and resided here several times. In 1654, he premiered his first play, “L’Étourdi,” in this city. Lyon’s municipal archives hold two autographs of Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, Molière’s real name. One from 1655 in Sainte Croix, where he served as a witness at a wedding. The other from 1657 in La Platière, where he was godfather to Jean-Baptiste Masson. Rue Molière, originally called Rue Monsieur, embodies the playwright’s enduring legacy.