Imagine stepping back in time on Rue du Moulin Neuf. This street echoes with tales of Paris’s captivating past. It is a history interwoven with art, nightlife, and even some scandalous secrets.
Rue du Moulin Neuf whispers stories of windmills. The name itself gives a clue. “Moulin Neuf” translates to “New Mill.” Once upon a time, two windmills graced a nearby hill. These windmills lent their name to the Rue des Moulins and its surroundings. The nearby Rue Saint-Honoré pays homage to the patron saint of millers.
Did you know that one of these windmills, Moulin Radet, had an interesting journey? It was dismantled and rebuilt in Montmartre. There it stands at the junction of Rue Lepic and Rue Girardon.
Now let’s talk about the street’s notoriety. It bloomed in the late 19th century. A certain artist named Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec played a big part. Lautrec was immersed in the theatrical life of Paris. He created provocative images of the extravagant 1890s lifestyle. His art often featured the demimonde of Paris, including prostitutes.
For a period, Lautrec actually resided at number 24 Rue des Moulins. This was no ordinary address. It was a luxurious brothel or ‘grande tolérance’. Inside were ornate rooms. There was a Chinese salon, a Gothic chamber, and a domed Moorish Hall.
This brothel was a well-run business. It operated under strict rules of conduct. Schedules were properly maintained. Lautrec found acceptance here despite his aristocratic background. He saw the sex workers as his friends and equals.
He produced over forty paintings and drawings. They depicted the inhabitants of Rue des Moulins. This must be the most famous brothel in the world. Lautrec painted these women without judgment. He showed their lives without moralizing, sentimentality, or contempt.
One famous painting is L’inspection médicale, Rue des Moulins from 1894. It depicts a medical inspection. Lautrec captured this routine without erotic exploitation. Physical exams were a fact of life for these women.
Back then, there were around 34,000 registered prostitutes in Paris. Brothels were licensed and monitored. Sex workers underwent routine medical inspections. Prostitution was often a matter of survival. Jobs were scarce for women. It was a way to improve their circumstances.
Rue du Moulin Neuf also reminds us of a hidden river. Paris had a second river called La Bièvre. It flowed through the Left Bank. Many watermills dotted its course. In fact, the river was straightened to accommodate them. Some street names in the area still include the word “moulin”.
Sadly, the Bièvre became heavily polluted. It was eventually covered over. It now flows underground as part of the city’s sewage system.
So, as you stroll along Rue du Moulin Neuf, remember its layers of history. Windmills, art, and a hidden river. This street whispers tales of a vibrant, complex Paris.