Ever wonder where French immigrants worshiped in Buenos Aires in the late 19th century? That was the Parroquia San Juan Bautista. This Catholic church stands on the corner of Alsina and Piedras in the Monserrat neighborhood. It holds a rich history and several interesting stories.
Initially the Parroquia San Juan Bautista was known as “San Juan de los Franceses”. This was due to its popularity among the French community. They particularly revered an image of San Bernardo. But it was also known as “iglesia de los vascos”.
The original church was built in 1654. Fray Cristobal de la Mancha y Velazco sponsored it for the local indigenous population. By 1719 the church was in disrepair. Juan Bautista de San Martin a wealthy neighbor offered to build a new temple. Construction finished in 1797.
In 1942 Parroquia San Juan Bautista was declared a National Historic Monument. The facade was remodeled in 1895 by J. M. Belgrano. Romulo Ayerza later reworked it. The church has a single nave covered by a barrel vault. A large blind dome sits over the transept.
Notably the private chapel remains. Capuchin nuns used it to hear Mass. The facade features a large central arch with a rose window and stained glass. It is topped by a frontispiece with small corbel arches. Asymmetrical towers flank the arch varying in size shape and height.
The main altar’s reredos dating back to the 18th century suffered damage in the fires of June 16 1955. During restoration thirty years later the altar table was separated. This allowed Mass to be celebrated facing the congregation.
Pedro Melo de Portugal y Villena rests in Parroquia San Juan Bautista. He was the fifth Viceroy of the Rio de la Plata. The “Patio de la Reconquista” holds the remains of soldiers from the English Invasions of 1806 and 1807. Both Argentine and British soldiers are buried there. A crypt under the choir contains the tombs of two hundred seventy Capuchin nuns.
Next to the church lies the “Patio de los Capellanes.” A statue of Santa Clara stands at its center. Tradition says she helped in the Reconquest of Buenos Aires in 1806. Santiago de Liniers and a group of patriots prayed for her protection at San Juan before fighting the British. Since their victory occurred on her feast day Santa Clara became a minor patron saint of Buenos Aires.
Inside the Parroquia San Juan Bautista a special image has its own story. Many people visit the image of the Nazareno bringing flowers as offerings. The current image is a copy. The original was once in a house on Alsina Street neglected in an attic. An elderly Black slave would pray before it each night lamenting its abandonment. One night she heard a voice from the image. It asked her to tell its owners to take it to the Iglesia de San Juan for proper worship. Scared she hesitated. The voice repeated its command warning her that she would die within eight days if she told the truth. She delivered the message and died eight days later.
The family obeyed. They processed the image to Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It was placed in the main altar’s central niche. In 1877 it was moved to its current location. Today the Parroquia San Juan Bautista serves as the Provincial House for the Priests of the Sacred Heart of Jesus of Betharram. It continues to be a place of faith history and remembrance.