“Barriers.” That’s likely what the name Rue des Bateliers alludes to. We are about to explore a Parisian street with a name that hints at a defensive past.
Rue des Bateliers may whisper tales of bygone eras. In medieval Paris, water-powered mills dotted the Seine. One such mill was named Moulin des Barres. It likely took its name from a defensive barrier once located there. These barriers or “barres” were common along the river. They offered protection against Viking invaders.
The street that branched off the Seine naturally became known as Rue des Barres. Today, we might connect this to Rue des Bateliers. Rue des Barres appears on a detailed map of Paris from 1550. It shows the street running between Rue de La Mortellerie now Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville and La Porte Bodes Rue François Miron.
Back then, the mapmakers unusually placed north to the left. You could see two islands in the Seine. Later, they joined to form Île Saint-Louis in 1614. The map also shows the Moulin des Barres on the Seine.
In 1250, someone built a mansion on Rue des Barres. They unsurprisingly called it Hôtel des Barres. 150 years later, Louis de Boisredon bought the hôtel. He was the captain of the Queen’s Bodyguards. Louis also became Queen Isabeau’s lover.
One day in April 1417, Louis passed King Charles VI. He gave a small salute. Louis did not dismount to properly honor his sovereign. Charles had Louis arrested for this slight. Or perhaps for his affair with the Queen. They sewed him up in a bag. Then they threw him into the Seine. The bag read “Laissez passer la justice du Roi”. This translates to “Let the justice of the King pass”.
We don’t know if this incident happened on Rue des Barres. But it’s a story we like to imagine. Especially when walking along this passageway. It runs from the Seine at Pont Louis-Philippe up to Rue François Miron in the Marais.
At the lower end, the Seine end, Rue des Barres starts. It begins next to restaurant Café Louis Philippe. This café has a lovely terrace. The street is tucked behind a tall period building. This building houses another restaurant, Chez Julien. From there, the street climbs wide, shallow steps. These steps lead into the Marais.
As you climb, Église Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais is on your left. A church has stood here since the 7th century. You can spot it on the 1550 map as S. Gerves. They built the current church over 150 years. Construction ended around 1650. Inside, you can see dramatic stained glass. Look up at the nave’s ceiling. Tragedy struck here during Good Friday service in 1918. A German artillery shell hit the church. It killed 88 people and wounded dozens more.
Further along the street, you can spot historic buildings. Number 12 dates from the time an abbey stood here. This was home to the nuns. They rebuilt it in 1540 in the half-timbered style. This style is called maison à colombages. Number 15 is a house from 1624.
Before leaving, wander down to the riverbank. Relax in the Parc Rives de Seine. It is now completely traffic-free. Rue des Bateliers invites you to step back in time. Imagine the defensive barriers and medieval intrigue.