Impasse du Chapeau Rouge

Slipping away from the bustling Place du Marché, we find ourselves at the entrance to Impasse du Chapeau Rouge. This narrow passage holds a secret, a whisper of a forgotten inn. Impasse du Chapeau Rouge. The name itself conjures images of a vibrant establishment, perhaps a place where cardinals once gathered. Our journey back in time begins here, in Vaise, the heart of ancient Lyon. Impasse du Chapeau Rouge wasn’t always a quiet cul-de-sac. It was once part of the main route, Rue du Chapeau Rouge, which extended to Place de la Rhodiaceta. Imagine the clatter of carts and the lively chatter of locals as they passed the infamous inn. The “Logis du Chapeau Rouge”, as it was known, stood proudly along this route until the 1870s. The red hat, or “chapeau rouge”, holds a significant meaning. It was during his stay in Lyon, from 1245 to 1250, that Pope Innocent IV decreed the red hat as the symbol of cardinals. This vibrant color represented the blood they were prepared to shed for the Church. Lyon’s history is intertwined with the chapeau rouge. In 1443, Barthélémy Bellièvre returned from Rome with the red hat destined for the Cardinal de Bourbon. The Duke of Nemours was received at the Logis du Chapeau Rouge in 1589. These events, recorded in the annals of Lyon, highlight the inn’s importance in the city’s social and political life. Interestingly, Lyon boasted several establishments named “Chapeau Rouge.” One was located in Saint Paul, another on Rue des Albergeries (now Rue Grenette), and a fourth operated in La Guillotière from 1475 until 1957. The very ground beneath Impasse du Chapeau Rouge whispers stories of a distant past. Archaeological excavations have unearthed a Roman pottery workshop, likely situated along a Roman road. Even the Saône River, which flooded up to this point in 1840, left its mark. Impasse du Chapeau Rouge stands as a silent testament to the layers of history beneath our feet. From a bustling thoroughfare to a tranquil cul-de-sac, it reminds us that even the smallest streets can hold the grandest stories.