The salty air whispers secrets. It carries the scent of the sea and the stories of Vallon des Auffes. This little fishing haven nestled between cliffs is more than just a pretty picture. It’s a living testament to Marseille’s rich history.
Vallon des Auffes a traditional fishing port is located in Marseille’s 7th arrondissement. It sits southwest of the Vieux-Port. It’s a charming spot between Catalans beach and Malmousque bay. The name itself holds a clue to its past. It comes from ‘l’auffe’ or ‘alfa’ a type of grass used to make ropes and fishing nets. In the 19th century rope makers settled here. Their skills shaped the Vallon we see today.
The port is a picturesque scene. About fifty fishermen’s cabins line the water. Traditional boats bob gently. The catch from these boats ends up in local restaurants. This ensures the freshest seafood for the diners. A striking reinforced concrete bridge arches overhead. It’s made of stone masonry and boasts three impressive 17-meter-high semicircular arches. Built during the construction of the Corniche Kennedy this bridge is 60 meters long. Its construction was a feat of engineering. The cove had to be sealed off to keep it dry during the foundation work.
A silent sentinel stands guard. The Monument aux Morts de l’Armée d’Orient. This five-meter-tall bronze statue depicts a woman raising her arms towards the sky. It faces the Mediterranean Sea. President Gaston Doumergue inaugurated it in 1927. In 2009 it gained recognition as a historic monument.
The walls of the Vallon have borne witness to fleeting fame. From 1998 to 2006 a giant mural of Zinedine Zidane adorned the valley. Adidas created it. The words ‘Made in Marseille’ accompanied the image. Later it was replaced by a Coca-Cola advertisement. More recently a poster of Annick Perrot-Bishop an unknown woman from Marseille replaced the advert. It was a tribute from artist JR when Marseille became the European Capital of Culture. This too was replaced by a sunglasses advertisement.
Today Vallon des Auffes remains a haven. It’s a place where the past and present intertwine. It’s a place where the scent of the sea and the taste of fresh seafood linger in the air. A timeless treasure nestled in the heart of Marseille. It is a place you will not forget.