Cuauhximalpan, the “place where wood is carved,” whispers secrets of Cuajimalpa de Morelos. This borough in western Mexico City, nestled in the Sierra de las Cruces mountains, holds a history as rich as the forests that once covered it. Cuajimalpa de Morelos is a land of contrasts. Towering office buildings and luxury residences now stand where sawmills and charcoal makers once plied their trade.
Cuajimalpa de Morelos wasn’t always part of the sprawling metropolis. Once controlled by the Tepanecas, then the Aztecs, the area’s rugged terrain provided refuge for those fleeing the Spanish conquest. Later, it became a crucial stop for travelers between Mexico City and the Toluca Valley. Cuajimalpa de Morelos still retains echoes of this past, particularly in the historic center of San Pedro Cuajimalpa. Here, the Parish of San Pedro, started in the 16th century and completed in 1925, stands as a testament to centuries of faith and tradition.
Cuajimalpa de Morelos played a role in the Mexican War of Independence. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla himself rested at the Mesón San Luisito in 1810 before the pivotal Battle of Monte de las Cruces. The borough officially took the name Cuajimalpa de Morelos in 1970, honoring this pivotal figure in Mexican history. The Jardín Hidalgo, a small park with a kiosk near the San Pedro Parish, offers a quiet spot to reflect on this history.
The Desierto de los Leones National Park, Mexico’s first protected natural area, lies within Cuajimalpa de Morelos. The park, spanning over 1,500 hectares, preserves the pine and holm oak forests that once blanketed the region. In its heart stands the former Carmelite monastery, now a museum showcasing the site’s history, the bicentennial of Mexico’s Independence, and the Mexican Revolution.
Cuajimalpa de Morelos is also a place of vibrant culture. The annual passion play, second only in size to Iztapalapa’s, draws millions to witness the story of Holy Week. The unique tradition of the “Hanging of Judas” on Holy Saturday adds a distinctive flavor to the celebration. Beyond the passion play, Cuajimalpa de Morelos hosts a Feria del Hongo, celebrating the local gastronomy of native mushrooms.
The transformation of Cuajimalpa de Morelos from a rural area to a bustling borough is evident in Santa Fe. This modern development, shared with Álvaro Obregón, boasts gleaming corporate offices and luxury apartments. The recent addition of a station for the Tren México-Toluca, “El Insurgente,” provides a much-needed link to the city’s mass transit system, marking a new era in Cuajimalpa de Morelos’s journey. From a “place of sawmills” to a modern hub, Cuajimalpa de Morelos continues to evolve while holding on to its vibrant past.