Wild Service tree

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Crimson leaves herald its presence in autumn. This is the Wild Service tree. It stands here quietly. It’s a testament to London’s ancient woodlands.

The Wild Service tree, Sorbus torminalis, isn’t always noticed. Its spring blossoms are pretty and white. Its autumn leaves turn a bright crimson. The tree blends in for most of the year.

Once, the Wild Service tree was widespread in England and Wales. It grew in forests. As forests were cleared, it became rare. Now, it’s found in old woodlands and hedges. These are often on heavy clay soils. Royal hunting forests are a common place to find them.

Look closely at the Wild Service tree’s leaves. They are jagged and palmate. They resemble Maple leaves. You can see small apple-like fruits too.

This tree is also called the Chequers tree. Its fruits flavored beer long ago. Many pubs are named “The Chequers”. It’s uncertain if the pubs named the fruits or vice versa.

The Wild Service tree is an indicator of ancient woodland. It doesn’t spread far from its parent tree. The fruits should be dispersed by birds. But the birds either don’t eat them or don’t carry the seeds far. One theory suggests the tree evolved with a bird no longer in the UK. So, a Wild Service tree likely has relatives nearby.

The Latin name, torminalis, means “good for colic”. The fruits were a remedy for this ailment. They also flavored ratafia. Ratafia is a drink made by marinating berries in spirit. Cherry brandy and sloe gin are examples.

The fruits taste astringent today. They are edible when over-ripe. This process is called bletting. Richard Mabey described the taste. He said it has hints of apricot, sultana, damson, and tamarind. It has a lightly gritty texture.

British summers are rarely warm enough for the Wild Service tree to fruit well. It often reproduces by suckers instead. But some trees bear many berries. One tree in East Sussex once bore two tons.

The word “Service” might come from “cerevisia”. This is the Roman word for beer. The berries once flavored this drink. But Richard Mabey disputes this link. He believes “Service” comes from the Old English word “syfre”. Syfre means clean, pure, sober, and temperate. It perfectly describes this tree.

The Wild Service tree stands quietly. It has white flowers or golden leaves. It’s a serious tree that sinks its roots into London clay. It reminds us of our shared history with plants and animals.

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