Standing here atop Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s feels like being on an island. An island of grass and stone amidst a sea of green. This unique landscape offers a 360-degree panorama. It is a view that’s hard to find anywhere else near Budapest.
Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s is part of the Sz\u00e9n\u00e1sok group of hills. It is one of the highest peaks in the Buda Hills. The summit falls within the administrative area of Nagykov\u00e1csi. It is not far from the border of Pilisszentiv\u00e1n.
Interestingly, the bare slopes we see are not entirely natural. Human activity played a significant role in shaping this landscape. Deforestation led to soil erosion. Grazing further prevented trees from reclaiming the hilltop of Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s.
Feel the wind. It is often strong up here. Notice the mix of grass and stones underfoot. The terrain is mostly barren on top. Lower down the slopes are covered in forests.
What makes Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s truly special is its unique plant life. Despite the harsh conditions some rare herbaceous plants thrive here. The small yellow pilisi flax is unique to Hungary. You can also find white helleborine. It is a species of orchid. Other protected plants include Hungarian gorgolya military orchid and King St Stephen’s carnations.
Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s wasn’t always treeless. Maps from the 18th and 19th centuries call it Weingarten Berg. This suggests that vineyards once dominated its southern slopes. This likely continued until the phylloxera plague in the late 19th century.
The lack of forest cover led to increased erosion. Dolomite rock makes up the hill. It crumbles easily but weathers slowly. This makes soil formation difficult. As a result only certain plants can survive here. These are mostly herbaceous plants whose roots do not need much support.
The Sz\u00e9n\u00e1sok hills are a protected area. Its European significance was recognized in 1995. It received the European Diploma.
Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s is easily accessible by public transport. Take bus 63 from H\u0171v\u00f6sv\u00f6lgy. Get off at the Nagykov\u00e1csi k\u00f6zs\u00e9gh\u00e1za bus stop. Follow the red trail markers north along Ant\u00f3nia Street. The hilltop is about 2.3 kilometers from the village.
The National Blue Trail section 13 passes through the summit of Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s. A 2 km long nature trail leads up the hill from Nagykov\u00e1csi. It showcases the unique wildlife of the Sz\u00e9n\u00e1sok.
A tourist house once stood near the summit. It operated from 1926 to 1979. Today only a memorial wall marks the site. It was erected in the early 1980s. A plaque from 1986 also commemorates the former tourist house.
Before we leave take one last look around. Appreciate the unique beauty and ecological importance of Nagy-Sz\u00e9n\u00e1s. It is a testament to the interplay of nature and human influence.