Before you, the Iglesia La Piedra que Habla stands. But did you know it is also called Iglesia San Juan Bautista? For years it was known as “the church of the Basques”. This was because it served as the Casa Provincial for the Congregation of the Fathers of the Sacred Heart from Bayonne starting in 1862.
The story of this church is deeply intertwined with the history of Buenos Aires itself. Its origins trace back to around 1620. At that time it was a simple chapel known as the “parish of natives”. Later it became a vice-parish of the Cathedral.
In 1747, the Capuchin Clarissa Sisters arrived from Chile after a difficult two-year journey. By 1754, the Congregation of Capuchin Clarissa Sisters took possession of the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista. This church stood on what is now Alsina Street at number 800. Captain Don Juan de San Martín donated land next to the church. This was for the construction of a convent. The Clarisas settled there permanently in mid-1756.
The foundation stone for a new temple was laid on September 29, 1777. It officially opened on August 15, 1795. Festivities included fireworks. Sadly the fireworks accidentally ignited the neighboring Teatro de La Ranchería. It burned down.
During the English Invasions the Iglesia San Juan Bautista served as a hospital. Its central courtyard became a place to care for the wounded. British soldiers and patriots who died rest there. Each year the “Day of the Reconquest” is commemorated at this site.
The Iglesia San Juan Bautista is considered the first temple built in Buenos Aires. It was declared a National Historic Monument on May 21, 1942. A large part of the original monastery was demolished to make way for a modern hotel. This is the Intercontinental Hotel.
Look up at the church’s imposing facade. Notice the two towers and a stained-glass rosette dating back to 1901. This was when the architect Rómulo Ayerza restored the temple. Inside the main altar features the Virgen del Pilar and Nuestra Señora de Lourdes. San Juan Bautista stands between them. Images of saints from the Order of San Francisco are on the sides.
Beneath the altar lies Don Pedro Melo de Portugal y Villena. He was the fifth viceroy of the Río de la Plata. He died in 1797. He requested to be buried here. The floor retains its original structure. Hand-hewn logs support bricks and tiles.
The church has three organs. They are well-known. Organists often play them in concerts. The east tower has three clocks visible from the street. Perhaps there is another on the other side of the tower.
The Iglesia San Juan Bautista is more than just a building. It is a living testament to the history and faith of Buenos Aires. Its walls have witnessed invasions. They have seen celebrations and served as a sanctuary for generations. Take a moment to appreciate the stories etched into every stone.