Imagine a colossal horse’s head towering above you. That is Sebastiáns “Caballito”. It stands as a testament to modern art in Mexico City.
This vibrant yellow sculpture replaced an older equestrian statue. The original “El Caballito” stood here from 1852 to 1979. It then moved to the Manuel Tolsá Plaza.
Sebastián titled his work “Cabeza de caballo”. It means “Head of a horse.” But everyone still calls it “El Caballito”. The name stuck even after the original moved.
The artist, Enrique Carbajal González, is from Chihuahua. His art often evokes the northern desert. He studied in Mexico City at UNAM starting in 1964.
The Glorieta where it stands is historic. This roundabout is the seventh on Paseo de la Reforma. It predates the Paseo by over a decade. It was first noted on Bucareli in 1852.
Avenida Bucareli remains grand. Antonio María de Bucareli y Ursúa, a Viceroy, created it in 1778. It became one of the finest streets. Its intersection with Paseo de la Reforma is still prominent.
This Caballito is made of steel plates. They are coated in bright yellow enamel. It is 28 meters tall. That is 92 feet. The Torre El Caballito owners commissioned it. They wanted it to be 28 meters tall. It also needed to vent fumes from a sewer below. It succeeded in both goals.
Sebastián’s work graces many Mexican cities. His sculptures are usually monochrome abstractions. They are based on natural forms. Two similar works are nearby. Coyote Hambriento is in Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl. Fluorita Roja is on the UAM campus in Azcapotzalco.
Some find the sculpture controversial. Big, modern art can do that. But Sebastiáns “Caballito” is respectful. It honors the past while correcting it. There are no conquered indigenous people here. No foreign king either. Sebastián focused on the horse’s head size and shape. He says he followed the Olmec sense of proportion.
The original “El Caballito” faced anti-Spanish sentiment. It was even hidden under a tarp. Lucas Alamán saved it from being melted down. It moved several times. In 1852, it moved to Paseo de la Reforma and Avenida Bucareli. In 1979, it moved to its current location.
Manuel Tolsás statue of Charles IV is now in the Manuel Tolsá Plaza. It stands before the Palacio de Minería. This placement honors Tolsás work.
The yellow “Caballito” has become a landmark. It is a point of reference for locals and tourists alike. It represents a modern Mexico. One that remembers its past but looks to the future. It is aging well after almost 40 years. It is a testament to the artist and his vision.