“Listen closely.” The Canon de 37 mm whispers tales of Marseille’s past. It stands as a silent sentinel. This Canon de 37 mm has witnessed the city’s evolution. It’s more than metal and bolts. It is a symbol of resilience.
Fort Saint-Jean stands tall facing the Vieux-Port. It is inseparable from Marseille’s history. Once a commandery it saw troops marching to Jerusalem in the 12th century. Chapels hospitals and palaces formed the commandery by 1365. King René built a large square tower between 1447 and 1453. Its purpose was to protect the port. The round tower that defines the fort came later in the 17th century.
Shipowners wanted a watchtower. It should be visible from 20 kilometers. This would ease trading ships’ tasks. Louis XIV ordered Fort Saint-Jean built between 1668 and 1671. This followed the expulsion of the Hospitaliers. After a Marseillais rebellion Vauban isolated the fort. He dug a moat as he was a French engineer and architect. The complex remained military until the French Revolution. Then it became a state prison. During World War II the fort served the Germans as an ammunition depot. An accidental explosion severely damaged it.
Facing Fort Saint-Nicolas, Fort Saint-Jean is a popular spot. Tourists and locals enjoy its views of the port. Today the fort is a cultural venue. Exhibitions and shows occur here. Footbridges connect it to the Mucem and the Church of Saint-Laurent.
Marseille became a main German port in the Mediterranean. This lasted from November 1942 to August 1944. It formed part of the German South Wall. The city was heavily fortified with gun batteries and air defenses. In 1943 Germans blew up part of Vieux Port. They believed it was a French Resistance stronghold. Simultaneously they began building a large U-boat bunker in the port. Named Martha it was to house 20 U-boats.
The Iles du Frioul had two gun batteries offshore. One had six 155 mm guns. The other held four 155 mm guns. All were in pillboxes plus a fire control post. Another battery with four 240 mm guns was planned. The islands already had French naval gun batteries.
Americans bombed Marseille on May 27 1944. On August 14 Allied forces landed southeast of the city. The advance was swift. On August 24 the USS Nevada bombarded the area. American bombers dropped over 50 tonnes of bombs on Iles du Frioul.
On August 28 1944 the Germans surrendered to French forces. The Iles du Frioul surrendered the next day. The U-boat bunker was never finished. Only the garage portion remains.
Fort Saint-Nicolas faced tensions between the city and royal authority. Louis XIV ordered a citadel built. He also ordered Fort Saint-Jean expanded. An army of 7000 men commanded by the Duke of Mercoeur surrounded and subdued the city. The citadel would allow surveillance and guard against attacks. It would also maintain sea communication.
Chevalier Louis-Nicolas de Clerville designed and supervised the fort’s construction. He was appointed Commissioner General of Fortifications by Mazarin. The site of Saint-Nicolas was chosen. It had a freshwater fountain and a medieval chapel. The approximately 6-hectare land was deemed sufficient. The King inscribed a message on the first stone. It expressed the desire to protect Marseille from upheavals and ensure the kingdom’s security.
Despite challenges construction finished in four years. The citadel followed a bastioned fortification model. It had a double-walled “star” plan adapting to the terrain. Composed of two distinct sets in pink stone the citadel was completed in 1664. It symbolized Louis XIV’s power.
The Canon de 37 mm stands here. It’s a reminder. Marseille has survived conflict. The Canon de 37 mm has witnessed both destruction and rebirth. Let its presence inspire you. Let it remind you of the strength within this city.