Blahbatuh

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Journey back to 1937. A Dutch scholar investigates Gajah Mada masks. His research unveils secrets.

Blahbatuh is a district in Gianyar Regency. It holds more than meets the eye. It covers 39.70 square kilometers. In 2010, 65875 people lived here. By mid-2019, the estimate reached 72140. Blahbatuh’s history is rich.

The scholar H.H. Noosten studied Gajah Mada masks. He published his findings in 1941. The article was titled “De Historische Maskers van Poera Panataran Topeng te Blahbatoe (Bali)”. It translates to “The Historical Masks of Pura Panataran Topeng Blahbatuh”. I Gusti Gede Lanang, a former district official, provided explanations.

Noosten’s research found 21 masks. These masks depicted historical figures. They spanned Majapahit and Bali from 1325 to 1650. These masks were kept at Pura Penataran Topeng Blahbatuh. Experts still debate the origin of these masks. Were they truly from East Java? Ancient inscriptions and lontar offer clues. These texts mention mask performances.

The Bebetin inscription from 896 AD mentions “partapuka” or “atapukan”. Other inscriptions also mention mask performances. The Ularan Prasraya lontar tells of Dalem Waturenggong’s reign. He ruled in Gelgel from 1460 to 1550. He aimed to conquer Blambangan. Patih Ularan and I Gusti Jelantik Pasimpangan led the troops. They conquered Sri Dalem Juru, the king of Blambangan. The victors seized spoils. Among them were two gongs, a chest of masks, and a box of wayang gambuh puppets. The Gajah Mada mask and wayang gambuh are now in Blahbatuh.

After Dalem Baturenggong died, Dalem Bekung ruled. Then Dalem Seganing took over in 1580. During his reign, three descendants of I Gusti Jelantik Pasimpangan lived. They were I Gusti Ngurah Jelantik, I Gusti Gede Tusan, and I Gusti Gede Lebah. One of them likely danced Topeng Pajegan. They used the masks from Blambangan.

Around 1879, the masks were moved to Blahbatuh. The descendants of I Gusti Ngurah Jelantik moved them. For centuries, Pura Penataran Topeng Blahbatuh housed the masks. Recently, they were moved to Puri I Gusti Agung Jelantik for safekeeping. In 1986, researchers counted 21 masks. Only six used the Javanese “canggem” style. The rest were likely made in Bali.

The masks depict figures like Danghyang Kepakisan. He was a Shiva priest and Gajah Mada’s teacher. Ki Gusti Pinatih also appears. He was an elder Majapahit official. Sira Patih Gajah Mada is also represented. He was a Majapahit official.

East of Blahbatuh’s market stands Pura Gaduh. It honors Mahapatih Kebo Iwa. North of Bedahulu’s intersection is Pura Kutri. It features a statue of Dewi Durga. She represents King Airlangga’s mother.

The masks now reside in Puri Agung Jelantik Blahbatuh. They sometimes appear in Topeng Pajegan performances. These performances occur during major ceremonies around Blahbatuh. They sanctify religious events. This tradition continues today. Blahbatuh preserves its historical treasures.

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