Deep within the Essonne department lies a place of reflection. It is the Cimetière d’Essonnes. This communal cemetery holds a surprising secret within its grounds. It is also known as the Russian cemetery of Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois.
In 1927, the Maison Russe retirement home opened nearby. It was intended for White Russian refugees. They had fled the Russian Revolution of 1917. Princess Vera Mestchersky spearheaded the transformation of a bourgeois residence, the Château de la Cossonnerie. It became a sanctuary for these displaced individuals.
That same year, the first resident passed away. She was laid to rest in the Liers cemetery. Over time, it became known as the Russian cemetery. Today, around 15,000 Russians or French citizens of Russian origin are buried here. Their graves occupy over 60% of the cemetery’s area.
The Cimetière d’Essonnes has become a site of remembrance. Several Russian Patriarchs have visited. They have honored the graves with flowers. The Russian section gained historical monument status in 2001. It stands as the largest Russian necropolis outside of Russia.
However, the Cimetière d’Essonnes is not exclusively Russian. You will also find Catholic, Muslim, and Jewish graves. Military tombs are scattered throughout the grounds. Some are discreet. Others are marked by stelae and chains. There are military squares for the Russian Imperial Army. You will also find squares for the White Russian armies. A section honors Russian soldiers who died for France in the World Wars.
Many notable figures rest here. Rudolf Nureyev is among the most famous artists. He was a celebrated dancer and choreographer who died in 1993. His tomb is unique. It is covered in a mosaic of a Kilim rug. Nureyev was particularly fond of this design. A principal ballerina from the Russian Imperial Theaters is also buried here.
Andrei Tarkovsky is buried at the Cimetière d’Essonnes. He was a renowned filmmaker. Patrick Topaloff, an entertainer and singer, also rests here. You can also find painters, sculptors, and Ivan Bounine. He was a writer and Nobel laureate.
Numerous members of the nobility are interred here. These include princes and princesses. Vera Obolensky lies here. She was a heroine of the French Resistance. Prince Felix Yussupov rests here. He masterminded the plot to assassinate Rasputin in 1916. Political figures are also buried in large numbers at the Cimetière d’Essonnes.
The Orthodox tombs have a distinctive style. This sets them apart from Catholic graves. Trees line the paths. Sometimes they even grow directly on the tombs. This gives nature a prominent place. Squirrels dart among the graves. Various plant species create small gardens.
The tombs are narrow but tall. Orthodox crosses mark them. They are made of wood, marble, or stone. Some have small roofs. Many are adorned with blue or gold domes. Small benches invite contemplation. Religious icons decorate the tombs. Niches hold candles. Moss covers some of the older, less maintained graves. This creates a unique atmosphere that many find more appealing than the austerity of Catholic cemeteries.
A separate area contains the Notre-Dame-de-la-Dormition church. It is a Russian Orthodox church with its own necropolis. Built in 1938, it gained historical monument status in 1974. The church reflects the architecture of Novgorod. The green roof symbolizes the earth. A blue dome represents the sky.
The basement houses a crypt. Bishops, the architect, and benefactors are entombed within. A fresco depicts the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The dome is adorned with Christ blessing the assembly. Visits to the church are by appointment only.
The Cimetière d’Essonnes offers a unique experience. It is a blend of Russian history, art, and nature.