Picture this a hidden passage in the heart of Paris. This is the Cour des Fermes a 72-meter long lane. It runs parallel to Rue Coquillière and Rue du Colonel-Driant. The Cour des Fermes is more than just a passageway. It’s a living testament to centuries of Parisian history.
The name itself hints at its rich past. It’s named after the Hôtel des Fermes. This building served as the headquarters of the Ferme générale. The Ferme générale was a tax collection company during the Ancien Régime. It occupied the site from the late 18th century. In 1781 it boasted a staggering 250000 employees. These workers were known as “gapians”. The Ferme générale was transformed into a Régie in 1785. It was then abolished in 1789.
Before the Hôtel des Fermes this area held other notable residences. One was the Hôtel de Jean de la Ferrières. He was a lieutenant of Admiral de Coligny. Jeanne d’Albret Queen of Navarre died there. This was just days before the St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre. Another important building was the Hôtel de Condè later the Hôtel de Soissons. It changed hands several times among prominent noble families. Eventually Pierre Séguier a future Chancellor of France acquired it. It became a haven for intellectuals like Racan and Sarrazin.
The Cour des Fermes has seen many changes. After the Ferme générale it housed various businesses. These included the Messageries Laffitte et Gaillard. There was also Olivier’s theatre and the Théâtre Comte. The Cour des Fermes even hosted Hippolyte Triat’s gymnasium from 1873 to 1879.
Today the Cour des Fermes stands as a quiet reminder. It whispers tales of powerful tax collectors. It echoes with the footsteps of royalty and intellectuals. It remains a charming and historic alleyway. It is a secret gem in the heart of Paris. A walk through the Cour des Fermes is a journey through time. It offers a glimpse into the layers of Parisian history. You won’t find a more captivating place.