Tavares Bastos

High above the city, Tavares Bastos isn’t just a favela. It’s a community painted onto the hillside, a place where the echoes of samba blend with the quiet hum of daily life. Tavares Bastos overlooks Guanabara Bay. It’s a neighborhood steeped in history, a canvas of stories waiting to be unveiled. Tavares Bastos came to life around 1931, on land that once belonged to a sprawling fazenda. Think back to the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Nobility flocked to Catete, dividing the area into chácaras, small farms or estates. This set the stage for the vibrant community we see today. Tavares Bastos earned a unique reputation. Between 2000 and 2008, it stood as a beacon of peace. It was one of the few major communities in Rio without drug trafficking or militia presence. This was due to the presence of the headquarters of BOPE, the Special Police Operations Battalion. Imagine the calm amidst the storm, a haven within a bustling city. The unique atmosphere of Tavares Bastos has attracted filmmakers. The favela served as a backdrop for the American film “The Incredible Hulk” and Brazilian productions like “Elite Squad” and “Xuxa Twins”. Even Snoop Dogg and Pharrell Williams chose this vibrant location to film their music video for “Beautiful”, drawn to the unique blend of art, culture, and community. Nestled within Tavares Bastos is The Maze. It’s more than just a hostel; it’s a pulsating heart of creativity. Built in 1981 by British artist Bob Nadkarni, it has become a renowned jazz venue, a haven for avant-garde Brazilian music, and a place to savor the spices of Indian cuisine. The rooftop offers breathtaking panoramic views, framed by mosaic walls crafted by hands from around the world. For seven years, The Maze has been recognized among the world’s top 150 jazz venues by Downbeat magazine. Tavares Bastos is also home to CRUMBS, which houses the Zezé Motta Cultural Center. Though currently inactive, it offered a theater, cinema, painting studio, and music room, a testament to the community’s artistic spirit. The Rede Nami, a women’s NGO, uses art to empower women and fight violence against them. Their Museu NAMI project transforms community walls into an open-air gallery, showcasing vibrant graffiti by women and peripheral artists. Tavares Bastos continues to evolve, a dynamic community defying expectations and embracing its unique identity.