“These white buildings. Do they remind you of something?” I ask. We stand before Barrio General José de San Martín a vast complex of white buildings. This is no ordinary neighborhood. Its history unfolds like a captivating novel.
Barrio General José de San Martín is unique. It’s an unofficial neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Originally named Barrio 17 de Octubre it was built during a pivotal time in Argentina’s history. It commemorates October 17th 1945 a date many consider the birth of Peronism.
The construction began in 1948 under President Juan Domingo Perón. Architect Carlos Coire designed this ambitious housing project. It was part of a larger plan to address housing shortages in the capital. Other neighborhoods like Parque Saavedra also arose from this plan.
Initially known as Barrio Grafa the neighborhood’s name reflected its proximity to the Grafa S A textile factory. This factory later made way for a Walmart. After Perón’s overthrow in 1955 the name was changed to Barrio General José de San Martín. The change signaled a shift in political power and the renaming of many public places.
The architecture is striking. Thirty-four concrete buildings stand tall. Their white facades showcase the rationalist style popular at the time. These buildings are known as monoblocks or pavilions. They represent a unique approach to social housing introduced during the Peronist era.
Each monoblock boasts a ground floor and three stories. Inside are 959 apartments most with two bedrooms some with three. The barrio includes a small commercial center a church a water tower and a central plaza. The water tower is interesting. It bears a faded inscription about free will and sovereignty a relic from a more politically charged past.
Imagine the lives lived within these walls. The families who raised children within this planned community. The changing social dynamics mirroring the nation’s tumultuous history. Barrio General José de San Martín is not just a place to live. It’s a living testament to a period of Argentina’s past. Its name its architecture and even its water tower whisper stories of Peronism social housing and political upheaval. We are standing amidst the legacy. A legacy etched in concrete and painted white. A legacy that continues to shape the neighborhood even today.