San Juan Tepenáhuac

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What if the ground beneath San Juan Tepenahuac could talk? It might tell tales of a coyote buried deep below. Legend says this animal was killed during the church’s construction. Some even say there are four coyotes! The legend says removing it would cause San Juan Tepenahuac to grow without end. Is it a blessing or a curse? You decide.

San Juan Tepenahuac is one of Milpa Alta’s original settlements. It borders Mexico State. This makes it one of the least visited pueblitos. The name Tepenahuac means “Near the mountain” in Nahuatl.

Look at the church. Notice its simple beauty. It has a single nave. A half-barrel vault tops it. Pilasters support the vault. Decoration is minimal. A few columns accent the space with a presbytery.

Step inside. See the small altarpiece. It is dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Now, gaze upon the main altar. It features an image of John the Baptist. To the right stands a pulpit. It displays the Immaculate Conception. A couple donated this image. Their daughter had been devoted to it before she died.

Outside, find the old stone cross. It stands in the remarkable atrium. Imagine the stories this cross could tell. San Juan Tepenahuac wasn’t part of Mexico City until 1935. After that, public services improved. Communication became easier. Nopale cactus cultivation grew. For years, the town was famous for its cactus fair.

Today, San Juan Tepenahuac feels like a mountain village. Views of mountains surround you. This village offers a glimpse into a simpler time. A time when legends were whispered and the land held secrets. As you leave San Juan Tepenahuac, remember the coyote. Remember the Virgin. Remember the mountains. They all form the heart of this unique place.

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