Iglesia de la Profesa

In the heart of Mexico City, a silent sentinel stands watch over the bustling Calle Madero. The Iglesia de la Profesa, also known as the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, has witnessed centuries of Mexico’s vibrant history unfold. This unassuming church, just a stone’s throw from the Metropolitan Cathedral, holds within its walls a treasure trove of stories, art, and secrets. The Iglesia de la Profesa wasn’t always the serene sanctuary you see today. Its story begins in the late 16th century with the arrival of Jesuit priests. They established their “Casa Profesa” near the Zócalo, sparking a land dispute with other religious orders. The Jesuits prevailed, and the first church, funded by Alonso de Villaseca, was consecrated in 1610. Sadly, the Great Flood of 1629 nearly destroyed the original structure. Only a portion of the Moorish-style roof remains, a hidden testament to its past. The church we admire today was rebuilt in 1720, a beautiful blend of 17th and 18th-century Baroque styles designed by Pedro de Arrieta. Funded by the Marquesa de las Torres de Rada, it features a recessed tezontle facade and an octagonal cupola. Look closely above the main portal, and you’ll find a cantera relief depicting Christ’s apparition to Saint Ignatius of Loyola. The Iglesia de la Profesa became a haven for art and religious fervor. Jesuits adorned the church with exquisite paintings, sculptures, and ornaments. But their time here was cut short. In 1767, the Spanish Crown expelled the Jesuits, their treasures passing to the Oratory of Saint Philip Neri. The church’s interior showcases Manuel Tolsá’s neoclassical altar, replacing the original by Pedro Patiño Ixtolinque. Admire the statues flanking the entrance, depicting the Virgin of the Rosary and the Vision of Saint Teresa. These transitional Baroque works by Cristobal de Villapando hint at the church’s rich artistic heritage. The Iglesia de la Profesa also played a pivotal role in Mexican history. In the early 19th century, it became the meeting place for the “La Profesa Conspiracy,” a conservative movement that influenced Agustín de Iturbide’s rise to emperor. Later, it served as a provisional cathedral during the tumultuous years of the Cristero War. The church’s art collection, once housed within the Casa de Ejercicios, now graces a dedicated art gallery. Explore this gallery, and you’ll discover masterpieces by renowned artists like Cristobal de Villalpando, Juan Correa, and José de Alcáibar. As you leave the Iglesia de la Profesa, take a moment to appreciate its quiet grandeur. It stands as a testament to Mexico City’s resilience, its artistry, and the enduring power of faith amidst the ebb and flow of history.