“Ebessan,” the locals affectionately call it. Ebisu-jinja Shrine’s history is intertwined with Hiroshima’s very own development. Ebisu is one of Japan’s seven lucky gods. He is beloved for his smiling face. His fishing pole and sea bream symbolize bountiful catches. These explain the small shrines often found along the coast.
Ebisu is also the god of commerce. He has a strong following among business people. In 1603 Hiroshima administrators transferred Ebisu. They moved him from a shrine in Yoshida to this location. Yoshida was the former Mori clan stronghold.
Regular market days contributed to the area’s growth. Entertainment like women’s kabuki also played a role. This was before the Tokugawa shogunate banned it. The shrine’s prestige rose along with the neighborhood’s fortunes. The annual November festival became an important city event.
Despite its importance, the shrine can be easy to miss. It is tucked away behind the Mitsukoshi department store. It is also wedged between shops. Outsiders can easily walk past without noticing it. However for three days in November, the shrine becomes the city’s focus.
The Ebisu Taisai Festival is held between November 18 and 20. Locals call it Ebisuko or Ebessan. It is one of Hiroshima’s top three festivals. The other two are the Tokasan Yukata Festival and the Kangensai Festival. Around 300000 people visit during the festival. Ebisu-dori Street is decorated with streamers. Stalls sell colorful komazare lucky rakes.
Ebisu Shrine is proud of its 400-year festival tradition. Even the A-bombing could not stop it. A makeshift building was constructed after the shrine was destroyed. This allowed the festival to proceed just three months after the bombing.
During the festival, stores hold sales. They buy komazarae bamboo rakes. These rakes are adorned with gold coins and treasure ships. You won’t see a shop without one. A huge barrel with a wide-open mouth sits in front of the shrine. People place offerings inside.
The main Chuo-dori road closes to traffic. This happens on at least one night during the festival. Two stages host kagura dance and taiko drum performances. In 2023 Chuo-dori closed on Saturday, November 18. It was closed between 7 PM and 10 PM. There was a Japanese taiko drum show. Hiroshima Kagura performances followed. The Sano Kagura troupe performed Ebisu. They also performed Yamata-no-orochi. This classic features a fire-breathing 8-headed serpent. So, while unassuming at first glance, Ebisu-jinja Shrine stands as a symbol. It represents resilience, commerce, and the enduring spirit of Hiroshima.