Perhaps the stones around us could talk. What tales would they tell of the Grotte de l’Étoile? Today, we stand before an entrance to a world veiled in mystery.
The Grotte de l’Étoile or rather Baume Loubière as it is also known, lies nestled in the 13th arrondissement of Marseille. It is about two kilometers northwest of Château-Gombert. Its story is as winding as the passages within.
Discovered in 1829 by J. Simonet, the cave remained largely unexplored for decades. It wasn’t until 1886 that the first expedition ventured into its depths. Then in 1893, Eugène Fournier and C. Rivière shared their finds in an article in the Bulletins et mémoires de la société d’anthropologie de Paris. They had unearthed a treasure trove of artifacts. These included a flint knife, three flint scrapers, a polisher, and two bone awls. Many pottery shards were found too. Some seemed crafted on a potter’s wheel. Animal and human remains lay scattered including fragments of long bones. The Grotte de l’Étoile had been used by humans long ago.
The name “Loubière” itself whispers of wolves. It comes from the Occitan “loubiero.” This means “wolf’s den.” Perhaps wolves once roamed here.
The Grotte de l’Étoile’s history took a dark turn in 1898. The cave was sealed after the murder of little Antonia Descours within its walls. This was done to deter curious onlookers. A shepherd confessed to the crime on his deathbed in 1915.
The cave remained closed until 1930. A company undertook works to transform the site into a tourist attraction. A restaurant was even built. These works lasted 15 months. Access was improved and electricity installed.
Advertisements beckoned: “Tourists, beware. Do not leave Marseille without visiting the Grottes Loubière.”
The Grotte de l’Étoile even served as a nightclub. Then in March 1989, the city of Marseille closed the Grottes Loubière. In 2021, its sealing was reinforced to prevent intrusions and degradation. Traces of the tourist site are still visible.
The Grotte de l’Étoile has inspired artists. Raymond Jean wrote about the caves in his 1976 novel. Jean Contrucci also set his novel, L’Affaire de la Soubeyranne, here.
The Grotte de l’Étoile even graced the silver screen. It served as a backdrop for films. One such film was La Peau de l’ours, filmed in 1954 with Jean Richard.
As we stand here, remember the many layers of history. Imagine prehistoric people crafting tools. Picture tourists flocking to explore its depths. Think of the Grotte de l’Étoile as more than just a cave. It is a portal to Marseille’s past. A past filled with both light and shadow.