Gazing upon the Vallée de Montmorency, it’s easy to imagine Jean-Jacques Rousseau strolling through this picturesque landscape. The Vallée de Montmorency, just north of Paris, served as a refuge and inspiration for the famed philosopher. Its rolling hills, dense forests, and charming villages have drawn visitors for centuries. The historical significance of the Vallée de Montmorency lies not just in its natural beauty but also in its connection to powerful figures like Rousseau and the Montmorency family.
The Vallée de Montmorency boasts a rich history dating back to prehistoric times. Tools from the Neolithic era, known as “Montmorencien”, have been discovered in the area. However, the valley’s story truly begins with Bouchard le Barbu in the 10th century. This “robber baron” was exiled from Paris to the then-desolate lands of Mons Maurentiacus, later to become Montmorency. Bouchard transformed the ruins he found into a formidable fortress, marking the birth of the town and the powerful Montmorency family lineage.
The Montmorency family rose to prominence, contributing six constables, twelve marshals, and four admirals to France. Anne de Montmorency, a key figure, was bestowed the title of Duke and Peer of France in 1551. He oversaw the completion of the Collégiale Saint-Martin, a stunning example of flamboyant Gothic architecture. This church served as the Montmorency family necropolis and showcases magnificent Renaissance stained-glass windows. While the family’s original fortress is long gone, the Collégiale Saint-Martin stands as a testament to their power and influence in the Vallée de Montmorency.
The Vallée de Montmorency faced its share of turmoil during the Hundred Years’ War and the Wars of Religion. Despite sieges and destruction, the town persevered, developing a thriving agricultural economy with vineyards, orchards, and windmills. In the 17th century, the valley’s reputation as a desirable residential area grew. Notable figures like Charles Le Brun, Louis XIV’s first painter, established estates here. Later, Pierre Crozat, a wealthy financier, built the “Grand Château”, of which only the Orangerie remains today.
The arrival of Jean-Jacques Rousseau in 1756 marked another significant chapter in the valley’s history. Seeking refuge from Paris, Rousseau found inspiration in the Vallée de Montmorency, writing some of his most famous works, including “The Social Contract” and “Emile”, in a small garden shed he called his “donjon”. Although his stay was brief, ending with his exile in 1762, Rousseau’s presence left an enduring mark. The house where he lived is now the Musée Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a tribute to his time in the valley.
The 19th century saw the Vallée de Montmorency flourish as a fashionable destination, accessible by the “Refoulons” railway. This unique train, with its locomotive pushing from behind to navigate the steep incline, connected Montmorency to Enghien-les-Bains. The railway contributed significantly to the valley’s popularity, attracting numerous visitors and new residents. While the Refoulons ceased operation in 1954, it remains a beloved symbol of the Vallée de Montmorency’s past.
Today, the Vallée de Montmorency retains its allure. Its blend of natural beauty, historical significance, and proximity to Paris continues to draw visitors. While exploring the valley, consider following the “Circuit des Vignes”, which traces a portion of the former Refoulons railway line. This offers a tangible connection to the valley’s rich history and serves as a reminder of the unique charm that defines the Vallée de Montmorency.