Across the Huangpu River, the Former Rowing Club beckons. It stands as a testament to Shanghai’s rich and complex history. The Former Rowing Club, established in 1863, wasn’t just a place for athletic pursuits. It became a social hub for the international community in Shanghai.
The Former Rowing Club was one of the first rowing clubs in Asia. Its first captain, William Stout, would later gain further rowing acclaim at the London Rowing Club. The club’s first secretary and treasurer was an American, A.A. Hayes Jr., highlighting the international nature of the club from its very beginnings. The Former Rowing Club fostered a sense of camaraderie among members from various nations. These included England, Scotland, Ireland, the U.S., Germany, Denmark, France, Belgium, Switzerland, Norway, and Italy. In 1937, twelve nationalities were represented among the club’s members, with the British and German contingents forming the majority.
The original clubhouse was a humble structure made of matting and poles. It evolved into a weatherboard building, complete with a bathroom and a dining saloon. By 1905, a new clubhouse arose alongside a boathouse and a covered swimming pool. The Former Rowing Club’s history intertwines with the Suzhou Creek, which was its primary rowing location. Later, regattas moved to Henli, a more suitable location with less river traffic.
In 1890, the club boasted 59 members. Its chairman, A.C. Westall, playfully encouraged a shift from the “effeminate game of lawn tennis” to the more “manly exercise of rowing.” He also acknowledged the club’s social role, stating that in Shanghai’s climate, people sought activities that provided both exercise and pleasure. This sentiment underscores the club’s function as a social hub, regardless of members’ rowing involvement. In his speech, Pearce humorously noted the placement of the new swimming pool next to the Union Church. He stated that “Cleanliness is next to Godliness,” implying the proximity of the pool to the church reflected this motto. The Former Rowing Club also employed local Chinese workers as boatmen, coxes, and locker room attendants. These staff played a vital role in the club’s daily operations.
The Former Rowing Club stands today as a renovated structure. While it no longer has its east and west wings, which housed the boats and swimming pool, traces of the past are visible. You can still see the lines in the lawn where the swimming lanes once existed. The Former Rowing Club’s story reveals more than just a sporting venue. It offers a glimpse into the lives and leisure of Shanghai’s international community in a bygone era. It speaks of social gatherings, international camaraderie, and the blend of athletic pursuits with leisure. The Former Rowing Club reminds us of a time when rowing on the Suzhou Creek was a central part of Shanghai’s social fabric.