Sweeping out of the Atlantic, the Ilha Cagarra rises before you. It’s a rugged, imposing islet, part of the larger Ilhas Cagarras archipelago. This cluster of islands sits just five kilometers off Ipanema beach. The Ilha Cagarra is the highest of the group, its peak reaching 79 meters, a stark contrast to the smooth sands of Ipanema. Designated a natural monument in 2010, the Ilhas Cagarras, including Ilha Cagarra, are now protected. This archipelago, including Ilha Cagarra, is a vital habitat for seabirds and marine life.
The name “Ilhas Cagarras,” meaning “Islands of Shit,” has a rather earthy origin. It comes from the sheer volume of bird droppings that coat the island’s rocky slopes. Seabirds feast on the abundant fish in the surrounding waters. They then return to Ilha Cagarra and the other islands to roost, leaving their calcium-rich droppings everywhere. This creates the distinctive white streaks visible even from Ipanema. A 1730 nautical chart labels the main island as “Island Cagade,” a Frenchified version of the name. A later document from 1767 names it “Crappy Island” or “Ilha Cagáda” in Portuguese.
The archipelago, including Ilha Cagarra, faces environmental challenges. The proximity to Rio de Janeiro means the islands are close to the city’s wastewater discharge point. This impacts the surrounding water quality. Despite this, the Ilhas Cagarras, and Ilha Cagarra specifically, remain a popular destination for eco-tourists. Divers and snorkelers explore the waters around Ilha Cagarra, discovering the rich marine life. They encounter sponges, fish, and other creatures thriving in this unique ecosystem. The establishment of the Cagarras Islands Natural Monument aims to protect this delicate environment. It ensures the preservation of the remaining Atlantic Forest ecosystem and safeguards the migratory shorebirds. Ilha Cagarra, with its dramatic cliffs and bustling birdlife, offers a unique glimpse into the natural wonders that exist just a stone’s throw from Rio’s vibrant shores. So, as you gaze at Ilha Cagarra, remember its less-than-glamorous name belies a wealth of natural beauty and ecological importance.