Pedra do Conde

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“Fancy some exotic fruits?” Imagine that question echoing through the Tijuca Forest. It transports us back to the early 1800s. We are standing before Pedra do Conde.

Pedra do Conde offers more than just a stunning view. It carries whispers of a bygone era. It is named in honor of Conde Aymar Marie Jacques Gestas. He was a prominent farmer and trader. His story is interwoven with the very fabric of this landscape.

Conde Gestas owned a sprawling farm here. He cultivated fruits, wines, coffee and exotic liqueurs. His most prized produce was strawberries. Dom Pedro I, the Emperor of Brazil, became a frequent visitor. He was captivated by the delicious strawberries. He was also impressed by the Conde’s thriving business. Their friendship blossomed amidst the lush greenery.

But there’s a twist in our tale. Conde Gestas played a pivotal role in introducing coffee cultivation to this region. While his strawberries charmed the Emperor, his coffee plantations had a significant impact. Within decades, the Tijuca Forest faced deforestation. This led to a massive reforestation effort 150 years ago.

As you gaze from Pedra do Conde’s three viewpoints, consider this. The first viewpoint reveals the Tijuca neighborhood and the Morro do Sumaré. Christ the Redeemer stands majestically in the distance. The second offers glimpses of Pedra Bonita and Pedra da Gávea. The third showcases Andaraí Maior and other mountains within the forest.

The hike to Pedra do Conde starts near the Capela Mayrink. A small staircase to the right of the chapel marks the beginning. The trail stretches almost 2000 meters to the summit. The hike is generally easy. It takes about an hour. The final stretch is a bit steeper.

Pedra do Conde was once called Pedra Redonda. This name came from its rounded shape. The name changed to honor Conde Gestas. He had a farm here before the land was expropriated for reforestation.

So next time you savor a cup of Brazilian coffee, remember Conde Gestas. Remember his strawberries, his coffee, and his impact. Pedra do Conde is a reminder of the complex relationship between progress and preservation. It is a story etched in stone and whispered by the wind.

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