Did Saint Denis really walk this very path? As we stand here, at the foot of Rue des Martyrs, it’s easy to feel a whisper of history brush against us. Rue des Martyrs isn’t just a street. It’s a journey through time, stretching from the vibrant 9th arrondissement all the way up to the artistic haven of Montmartre in the 18th. This almost 900-meter climb, lined with nearly 200 shops and restaurants, is a bustling artery of Parisian life. The street’s name, Rue des Martyrs, meaning “Martyrs’ Street,” evokes a somber tale. It refers to Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris. Legend says he was martyred on this very route, close to where the Basilica of Saint-Denis now stands. He was decapitated during the Roman era, but not before, the story goes, he picked up his severed head and walked along this road.
Rue des Martyrs has always been a path of movement, a link between the church of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette and the Sacré-Cœur Basilica at the peak of Montmartre. Over the centuries, it evolved from a humble country lane into the vibrant thoroughfare we see today. Imagine the clatter of hooves and creak of carts as villagers made their way to market. Picture the bohemian artists of the 19th century, drawn to Montmartre’s allure, strolling along this very street. Figures like the poet Baudelaire and the artist Courbet frequented a notorious nightspot at number 7. Today, a Carrefour supermarket stands in its place. The novelist Émile Zola, a resident of the area, even set part of his novel “Nana” on Rue des Martyrs.
This street has witnessed history unfold. In 1871, during the Paris Commune, General Clément-Thomas was recognized and executed here. More recently, in 2012, stunning painted advertisements for Ripolin paint and Bénédictine liqueur were discovered on a building at number 10. Dating back to 1908, they are now protected historical monuments. Rue des Martyrs has also been home to a surprising array of famous figures. The composer Maurice Ravel lived at number 40 with his family. At number 42, a plaque commemorates comedian Claude Vega. Even André the Giant, early in his wrestling career, trained at number 22.
Rue des Martyrs continues to evolve. In 2018, as part of a green initiative, planters and trees replaced parking spaces, transforming sections of the street into a pedestrian-friendly oasis. As you wander along Rue des Martyrs today, take a moment to absorb the energy of this unique street. From the bustling shops and vibrant nightlife to the whispers of history, Rue des Martyrs is more than a street. It’s a microcosm of Paris itself.