“Refik’s gone” a passerby lamented. That’s how I learned about the closure of Refik Restaurant. It was more than just a restaurant it was an institution. For almost seventy years Refik Restaurant stood proudly in Asmalimescit a bohemian heart of Beyoğlu. It was established in 1954 by Refik Aslan a man who arrived in Istanbul from Çamlıhemşin at just fourteen years old. He learned the culinary arts working in various restaurants mastering the subtleties of Russian and German cuisine. His skills led to his own establishment Refik Restaurant.
Refik wasn’t just any meyhaneci. He was a character a fixture. You could often spot him in the evenings meticulously sorting barbunya beans or playing tavla with a famous painter friend. Refik’s became a gathering place for Turkey’s intellectuals. Writers artists academics almost everyone who mattered would stop by for a drink or a meal. His background was reflected in his delicious food like the spring lamb dishes. Even university students like me in the 80s would frequent Refik’s. Sometimes when our wallets were light Refik Baba would discreetly add an extra raki to our bill a kind gesture to a struggling student. His pilaki was legendary without tomatoes or peppers a unique twist.
Refik Aslan passed away in 2011. His family continued to run the restaurant for many years but eventually Refik’s closed. Its closure was a loss not just for Istanbul but for Turkish culture itself. The building now houses a different restaurant. It’s a sad reminder of what once was.
The story of Refik isn’t just a story of a restaurant. It’s a story of a man. A story of culinary excellence. A story of community. And sadly a story of loss. Refik’s legacy however lives on in the memories of those who knew and loved it. The legend of the meyhaneci and his restaurant will endure long after its doors closed. The taste of his pilaki. The generosity of Refik Baba. These are the memories that keep Refik’s alive in our hearts.