“A devil in the shop?” That’s what people whispered about a grain merchant here on Allée du Dessus du Four. Imagine, if you will, Paris. Now, imagine the Allée du Dessus du Four.
Allée du Dessus du Four wasn’t always what it is today. It has a history. It is linked to stories of merchants and even devils.
Back then a grain merchant fueled the rumor. She had a devil in her shop. All of Paris flocked to see this spectacle. The merchant would lock herself in. Then she would dramatically crawl around her shop. A moving counter hid her actions from prying eyes. This performance went on for days. Curious onlookers were spooked.
The commissioner stepped in. He threatened to lock her up if the devil returned. Miraculously the devil vanished. It never returned to Allée du Dessus du Four. This tale comes from Abbé de la Porte’s “Voyage au séjour des Ombres” published in 1749. It is just one story connected to this street.
The Allée du Dessus du Four has ties to the Saint-Germain fair. Cul-de-jatte Scarron the kermesse poet visited the fair. He came by chair. The fair had two performance stages. Sometimes there were four. Comic opera thrived here. This fair was the birthplace for theaters. The Ambigu the Gaieté and the Variétés all started here.
Evenings at the fair buzzed. People danced and enjoyed themselves. Cabarets were plentiful. Though one needed to be careful not to fall into debauchery. Every morning mass took place in a chapel. The fair offered both damnation and salvation. Lords and paupers alike came to enjoy the festivities. The air smelled of food. Bateleurs performed. They gave their best for free.
Families saved all year for this annual gala. Bourgeoises donned new clothes. They looked radiant and youthful at the fair. But dangers lurked. Pickpockets roamed. Shady cafes in side alleys were best avoided. A cautionary guide from 1727 warned against these perils.
The Saint-Germain fair was established by Louis XI. He gave it to the abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Initially there were 140 lodges. These later became open-air galleries. A fire destroyed the halls in 1762. They were rebuilt. But they were built more economically. The streets were no longer sheltered from the rain. Merchants actors and performers returned. The number of cafes increased. Two boxes were reserved for royalty.
The Allée du Dessus du Four also saw theatrical pieces. These were full of allusions to the personalities of the time. As we conclude this part of our tour remember the grain merchant and the devil. Think about the fair’s vibrant atmosphere. Imagine the characters who walked these very stones. The Allée du Dessus du Four is more than just a street. It’s a stage for Parisian history.