What if I told you this church moved by itself? This is Santa María Nativitas Tepetlaltzinco. Today, it faces Eje Central. The church presents an intact atrial wall. Most church atriums became city parks after mid-19th-century religious reforms.
Santa María Tepetlalzingo is among the original settlements of Benito Juárez. It appears as a shaded island on a 1521 map. It was likely a small fishing village. Its Nahuatl name means “small sepulchre or tomb.” The church is usually called Nativitas. However, the Nativitas neighborhood is directly east today.
An original chapel stood here around 1528. By 1585, a larger church was built. Franciscans constructed it. It was part of their efforts across the area. The church you see now replaced that one in the 17th century. The temple has a single nave in the Baroque style.
Legend says the church owes its name to the Santa María de la Natividad festival. It is celebrated on September 8. The church was built in 1585. It had an adobe chapel and a small convent. It was not surrounded by the wall that protects it now.
The reconstruction and expansion occurred in 1944. The change from chapel to parish was celebrated in August 1958. Father Ángel Gordon was its first parish priest. Currently, the church is being restored.
The facade of the parish highlights the Baroque style. Inside, on the left side, is a bell tower. On the right are the offices. The parish has a large fenced atrium. A recently remodeled garden is inside. It features a sphere fountain in the center.
Inside the temple, you can see wooden beams on the ceiling. Period chandeliers hang from it. On the walls are multicolored stained-glass windows. They have a cross in the middle. The saints are in masonry niches.
Inside the temple built around 1585, is an image of the Virgen de la Natividad. It is a unique sculpture in polychrome wood. It represents the Virgin Mary standing on a cloud held by cherubs.
The legend tells that the church of Tepetlalzingo lacked its own image of the Virgin. This was to celebrate her birth. So, they borrowed a sculpture of María Santísima. It came from the town of San Mateo near Santa Fe. They returned the image after Tepetlalzingo’s celebrations. One time, after being returned to San Mateo, the image reappeared. It was miraculously on the altar of the Nativitas chapel. The faithful and religious were astonished. Returned once again to its owners, the Virgin returned to Nativitas again. She expressed her desire to stay in this community.
Along with the Virgen de la Natividad, the faithful of Tepetlalzingo venerate María Niña or Divina Infantita. It’s a pasta sculpture. It represents the Virgin in her childhood. It is considered one of the few representations of Mary under this invocation in the country.
Throughout the 20th century, the church hosted famous processions. A wooden figure of the Virgin Mary paraded through the streets. It is still revered. It is among the few representations of the Virgin as a child. According to legend, it was lent from a church in Santa Fe. It miraculously reappeared here after one procession.
The festivities honoring the Natividad de María begin with the novena on August 30. The image of María Niña leaves the church of Nativitas. She visits the houses of those who will offer serenades for nine days. They also offer Holy Mass and the Holy Rosary. There is also a gathering for attendees in honor of the Virgin.
On September 8, the image of María Niña returns to her temple. It is adorned with abundant flowers for the traditional serenades. The solemn services of the day are also observed. The big party moves to the following Sunday. The Virgen de la Natividad, accompanied by the Divina Infantita, goes in procession. She travels through the streets of the community carried on a flowered platform. She visits her faithful who receive her with sawdust carpets and regional dances. There are also concheros and Aztec dances. Mariachi music and even a parade join the procession. They accompany the Queen of Heaven.
Despite being surrounded by apartments and buildings, the procession breaks with the urban scheme. It attracts the attention of locals and strangers. They stop to see the Virgin who tours the community spreading blessings. She reminds the community of its roots. She exalts the identity of those originally from the ancient town of Tepetlalzingo.
So, remember Santa María Nativitas Tepetlaltzinco. It stands as a testament to faith and history. It is a vibrant part of Mexico City’s cultural tapestry.