Why does Nuestra Señora de Loreto Church lean? This is a question many visitors ask. The answer lies in its unique construction and the history it has witnessed.
Nuestra Señora de Loreto Church stands in Mexico City’s historic center. It was the last major church built during the colonial period. Construction spanned from 1806 to 1819. It concluded just before Mexican Independence.
The story of Nuestra Señora de Loreto begins with the Count of Bassoco. He wanted a church dedicated to Our Lady of Loreto. Her image was once housed in the nearby Jesuit college of San Gregorio. After the Jesuits were expelled the image moved to the Convent of La Encarnación.
The church’s location has its own history. It was once a chapel used as a baptistery for the Church of San Pedro y San Pablo in 1680. Manuel Tolsá submitted designs. However Ignacio Castera and Agustin Paz designed and directed the work. Construction occurred in three stages. The first stone was laid in 1809. The church was consecrated on August 21 1816.
Upon completion the image of Our Lady of Loreto returned from La Encarnación. It was placed in the hands of the Jesuits. However a design flaw caused a significant problem. One side was built with heavy stone. The other used tezontle. Tezontle is a light porous volcanic stone. This difference in weight caused the church to tilt eastward.
By 1832 the sinking was so severe authorities feared collapse. The church closed and the image moved to San Pedro y San Pablo Church. Fortunately by 1850 engineers deemed it safe enough to reopen. The image of Our Lady of Loreto returned home. Despite the tilting and structural issues the sections have remained intact.
Nuestra Señora de Loreto showcases strong Neoclassical design. This is notable because its layout is still Baroque. Neoclassical style was emerging in Mexico in the early 19th century. Independence halted major church building in the capital.
The dome is the church’s most striking feature. It was the largest dome built in Mexico City during colonial times. The cupola measures 30 meters wide and 15 meters high. The dome’s weight required thick walls and buttresses for support. The towers mirror the church’s lines. Pediments lanterns ribs and the cross all follow the dome’s lines.
Inside the central nave spans 2800 square meters. It rises 30 meters high. A rotunda at the back is lit by cupola windows. Interestingly there is no main altarpiece in the rotunda. Sadly the ceilings of the cupola and nave are almost bare. Humidity and the uneven settling have deteriorated the decoration.
The plaza in front of Nuestra Señora de Loreto also has a story. It was once a dumping ground until Carmelite nuns built the Santa Teresa la Nueva convent. This led to cleanup and construction of homes. In the 1880s a fountain provided water. Later a market was installed. In 1925 a fountain by Manuel Tolsá replaced the old one. In 1968 the plaza was remodeled destroying Mexico City’s first synagogue.
Today Nuestra Señora de Loreto faces ongoing challenges. Cracking and stress from uneven sinking threaten the structure. The Archdiocese says it is in imminent danger of collapse. Despite repairs the tilting remains uncorrected. The paintings on the ceilings are also deteriorating.
Nuestra Señora de Loreto stands as a testament to history design and resilience. Its imperfections tell a story of colonial Mexico. It is a story of architectural ambition and the challenges of time.