The church stands majestically on Place Saint-Gervais in the Marais district. This is the Eglise Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais, a fascinating monument that whispers tales of faith, history, and even wartime tragedy. It is one of the oldest parish churches in Paris, dedicated to the saints Gervais and Protais, two Christian martyrs. The church has a rich history, dating back to the 7th century, when a basilica stood on this very spot. Construction of the current church began in 1494, but it took a staggering 163 years to finish. This was due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, including the French Wars of Religion and a lack of funds.
The church is a stunning mix of architectural styles. From a distance, you might be fooled into thinking it is a classical building because the façade, completed very late in the process, is a masterpiece of French Classicism. The three orders of classical architecture with a pediment on top make it unique among churches in Paris. But if you venture inside, you become aware of its Gothic heart and the rich interior with its intricate vaulted ceilings and dramatic stained-glass windows. There are a few clever details to look out for. The church has remarkable choir stalls dating from the reigns of François I and Henri II. They are richly carved with scenes of daily life, including the different professions of the people who lived in the Marais at the time. This is something you wouldn’t expect to find inside a church.
One of the most tragic events to happen to this church occurred on Good Friday in 1918 in the middle of a mass. A German shell, fired by a long-range “Paris Gun” landed on the church, killing 92 people and wounding 68 others. Today you can still see traces of this horrible event on one of the pillars. Many have been touched by the stories of the families that congregated inside the church, who were struck by the shell while trying to escape the violence of World War I. But thankfully, the church was restored to its former glory and serves as a sanctuary today. And as you stand here in front of it, you can feel the spirit that continues to thrive within its walls.