Puʻuohu

Have you ever heard of a “hill of escape”? High on a ridge overlooking Waimea Valley sits Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau. Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau isn’t just any hill. It’s the largest heiau, a religious site or temple, on Oʻahu. It sprawls across almost two acres, a testament to its importance in ancient Hawaiian society. The name itself, Puʻu o Mahuka, translates to “hill of escape”. Imagine the makaʻāinana, the commoners, toiling under the hot Hawaiian sun. They lift heavy stones, directed by the aliʻi nui, the high ruling chief, and his kahuna, or priests. Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau likely arose in the 1600s. It was built as a series of three walled enclosures. These stacked rock walls stand three to six feet high, with the interior paved in smooth stone. Within the walls, imagine wooden and thatch structures housing sacred objects and providing shelter for the kahuna. Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau evolved over time. It seems the upper eastern enclosure came first, the ceremonial heart of the heiau. The other two enclosures were later additions, possibly around the 1700s. Fast forward to the 1770s. High priest Kaʻopulupulu, serving under Oʻahu chief Kahahana, oversaw this sacred place. This was a tumultuous period, and Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau likely became a heiau luakini, a sacrificial temple, possibly used to pray for victory in war. In 1795, Kamehameha I conquered Oʻahu. His high priest, Hewahewa, performed rituals at Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau, continuing its use until the abolition of traditional religion in 1819. From its vantage point, Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau commands breathtaking views of Waimea Valley and the northern shoreline. This location wasn’t chosen randomly. It had connections with the heiau at Wailua on Kauaʻi. Signal fires between these two heiau allowed for communication between islands. Imagine a fire blazing atop Puʻu o Mahuka, its message carried across the ocean to distant Kauaʻi. In 1792, Captain George Vancouver anchored his ship, the Daedalus, off Waimea. He sent a party ashore for water. A skirmish erupted, resulting in the deaths of three of Vancouver’s men. Some believe these men were brought to Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau as sacrifices. Following its abandonment in 1819, the heiau may have served other purposes. Some suggest the middle enclosure became an agricultural area. Its stone mounds may have been clearing or planting areas. Pineapple grew around Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau until the 1960s. In 1962, Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau received its due recognition. It was declared a National Historic Landmark, a testament to its vital role in Hawaiian culture and history. That same year, the surrounding four acres came under the protection of State Parks, ensuring this sacred site’s preservation. The path we walk today was created in the 1960s. To protect this sacred place, we observe it from outside the walls. Puʻu o Mahuka Heiau stands as a silent witness to centuries of Hawaiian history, a hill of escape offering a glimpse into a rich and complex past.