“Ruelle des Clos?” A hush falls over the group as I point to the narrow cobblestone lane, barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side. Nestled between towering buildings, Ruelle des Clos whispers secrets of Montmartre’s vibrant past. Here, in the 18th arrondissement, amidst the charm of winding streets, lies a hidden alleyway rich with history and intrigue.
Its name, a corruption of the old French word “claye,” means “grill” – a reference to the ancient barriers that once guarded this street. In the 19th century, this street stretched much further, leading all the way to Rue Championnet. It was a bustling thoroughfare, home to a day school run by the mother of anarchist Louise Michel, a woman known for her fiery passion for social justice. Here, young minds were ignited with ideas of freedom and change.
But Ruelle des Clos hides more secrets. During the Second World War, a clandestine printworks operated at Number 17. The resistance movement, FTP (Franc-tireurs et partisans), printed the first issue of their newspaper, “France d’abord,” right here, in this humble alleyway. It was a pivotal moment, a testament to the bravery and resilience of the people who dared to fight for their country.
Today, Ruelle des Clos is a peaceful haven, a reminder of the enduring spirit of Montmartre. It may be small, but it holds within its heart the echoes of a bygone era – a testament to the quiet heroism and the indomitable spirit of this remarkable neighborhood. As I walk past the quaint buildings that line the street, I imagine Louise Michel’s students, their eyes sparkling with the promise of a brighter future, and the courageous resistance fighters, their hearts filled with determination. Ruelle des Clos is a place where history whispers, where you can sense the energy of those who lived and fought here.