Cobblestones slick with rain. That’s how I always picture the Montée du Gourguillon. Now, imagine yourselves back in Roman times. This steep climb, the Montée du Gourguillon, was the main artery connecting the bustling riverbanks of the Saône to the heights of Fourvière, the ancient Lugdunum. Centuries before the charming boutiques and cafes, this was a vital pathway for merchants, soldiers, and everyday citizens. The name itself, “Montée du Gourguillon,” evokes the sound of rushing water. The Latin word “gurgulio,” meaning gullet, perfectly captures the image of rainwater cascading down this slope. Some even whisper a darker origin. They speak of “gurges sanguinis,” a chilling reference to the blood of martyrs said to have flowed down these very stones in 177 AD.
The Montée du Gourguillon has witnessed grand processions. In 1245, Pope Innocent IV, alongside Emperor Baldwin II and Count Raymond VII of Toulouse, ascended this very path. Their destination? The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, where they convened the First Council of Lyon. The street remained the primary access to the Saint-Just quarter until the late 16th century, a testament to its historical significance. Today, it’s 400 meters long, rising 53 meters, a challenging but rewarding climb for those who brave its slopes. As you ascend the Montée du Gourguillon, look closely. Notice the small steps placed every ten meters, offering a brief respite to weary travelers. Observe the elegant 15th-century houses, their mullioned windows adorned with whimsical grotesques and fantastical creatures. These architectural gems offer glimpses into the street’s rich past.
Hidden amongst these historic buildings are remnants of a secret world. A private traboule at number 2 leads to Montée du Chemin-Neuf, a passage used by silk workers and Resistance fighters alike. A little further up at the Impasse Turquet between numbers 5 and 7 you can find the oldest wooden galleries in Lyon, whispers of 14th-century secrets, dating back to a time when timber-framed structures graced the hillside. As you continue your ascent, the street opens onto Place Beauregard, a small square offering a panoramic view of the city below. This square emerged after 1540, a subtle change in the landscape carved out from the repositioning of a few houses. From here, the Montée des Épies descends towards the Saint-Georges quarter via a long staircase. As you reach the top of the Montée du Gourguillon, you’ll find it splits into two paths. A staircase leads to Rue des Farges and the school of Saint-Just. The other path continues the paved climb, eventually joining the Montée du Chemin-Neuf.
The Montée du Gourguillon stands as a timeless reminder of Lyon’s layered history. From Roman pathways to medieval processions, it has borne witness to centuries of stories. Take a moment to absorb the echoes of the past. Imagine the footsteps of those who walked this ancient street before you, and let the spirit of Lyon fill your senses.