“Once upon a time in Lyon” is how every good story should begin and our story of the Rue du Bât-d’Argent is no different. This street tells a silent tale of transformation and the sweet beginnings of a classic French treat. It is a story of how Lyon’s past is interwoven into the present. The Rue du Bât-d’Argent is located in Lyon’s 1st arrondissement. It has seen many changes throughout its long history.
Initially, this street was known as Rue du Pet Étroit. Pet Étroit means narrow street. It was also known for a less appealing reason its foul smell. By the 17th century, it was renamed Rue du Pas Étroit.
The current name, Rue du Bât-d’Argent, comes from a silver sign. This sign belonged to a business related to the trade of bâtier or bourrelier. These were tradesmen who made packsaddles and harnesses. This silver sign was located at either number 11 or 17 on the street.
The Rue du Bât-d’Argent has witnessed important events. In 1793, the Jacobin Club held meetings here. These meetings took place in the northern part of the street. The section between Rue du Garet and the embankment opened in 1551.
Over time, Lyon decided to widen the Rue du Bât-d’Argent. From 1844 to 1883, the city bought several buildings. This included the hospices at number 13. They were purchased for 210000 francs in 1859. In 1890, the Municipal Laboratory of Slaughter was installed at number 21. This laboratory was used for public vaccinations.
The street also boasts architectural evolution. Today, you can see four-story buildings from the late 19th century. But at the intersection with Rue de la Bourse, an 18th-century house still stands. Notably, in the 18th century, the house at number 18 was quite modern. It had different rooms for different functions. Even children had their own bedrooms, which was rare at the time.
Now for a sweet secret: The papillote was born on the Rue du Bât-d’Argent. A pastry apprentice created it. His boss, Mr. Papillot, caught him sending sweets wrapped in love letters to his sweetheart. Instead of punishing him, Mr. Papillot embraced the idea. Now, papillotes are a classic French Christmas treat. These chocolates come wrapped in shiny paper with a small firecracker and a joke inside.
Many famous people have lived on the Rue du Bât-d’Argent. The sculptor Antoine Coysevox lived here in the 17th century. André-Marie Ampère and his wife lived here in 1800. The writer Stendhal resided here in 1837. Painters Jean-Pierre Crolle and François Nolin also called this street home. Even Alphonse Daudet lived here.
At number 2, there once stood a statue of the Madonna and Child sculpted by Coysevox. This statue, created around 1676, is considered a baroque masterpiece. Since 1771, it has been preserved at the Église Saint-Nizier.
So, as you stroll along the Rue du Bât-d’Argent, remember its history. Think of the narrow smelly street it once was. Envision the silver sign of the tradesmen. Imagine the pastry apprentice sending his love-filled sweets. This street connects us to Lyon’s past. It also reminds us that even small streets can hold big stories.