“Isn’t it strange that a street could survive a revolution and a World War?” I ask. Rue Villeneuve in Marseille is such a place. It’s a street with a story etched in its very stones.
Rue Villeneuve’s tale is intertwined with that of Marseille’s City Hall. The City Hall, or Hôtel de Ville, stands as a testament to Marseille’s resilience. Its story begins long before the street was even conceived.
Originally, there was La Maison de Ville. This building united the merchants and consuls of Marseille in the 13th century. Then, in 1653, Louis XIV decided Marseille needed a makeover. He wanted the city managed by aldermen and its port regime changed. Gaspard de Villages, the First Consul, suggested demolishing La Maison de Ville. The goal was to make way for a grander City Hall. Jean-Baptiste Méolans, an architect, was put in charge.
Construction started in 1653. But progress was slow. Lack of funds and civil unrest hampered the work. Gaspard Puget, brother of Pierre Puget, took over the project in 1666. He completed it in 1673. Pierre Puget only made the crest on the main door. It is now relocated to the Musée des Beaux-Arts. The current crest is a copy.
The new City Hall reinforced municipal authority with its ceremonial facade. It faced the sea, opposite the galley arsenal, symbolizing royal power. Yet, it almost didn’t survive the French Revolution. Revolutionaries nearly demolished it. Marseille was even called the “nameless city” during this time.
Despite these close calls, the City Hall stood firm. It escaped destruction again during World War II. In 1943, the Germans bombed much of Marseille. The City Hall was one of the few buildings left standing.
The people of Marseille soon nicknamed it “the lodge.” This was a nod to the Italian loggia. It reflected the strong influence of Genoese palaces. The building is divided into two parts. The original part includes the Puget Pavilion. This section overlooks the port and has a balcony. It offers magnificent views. You can see La Bonne Mère and the Old Port from here. The mayor’s office is located here. The Pavilion connects to the Bargemon Pavilion. It is linked by an archway on the building’s rear side.
Interestingly, there’s no staircase from the ground floor to the first floor in the original building. To reach the upper level, one must go through the building behind. A bridge connects it to the City Hall. This oddity reflects old customs. Merchants were kept separate from aldermen. Merchants occupied the ground floor. Aldermen were on the first floor.
The City Hall represents Provençal Baroque art in Marseille with Genoese influences. It was declared a Historical Monument on April 30, 1948.
Since 2006, the Municipal Council has met in the Espace Villeneuve-Bargemon. This space is located under Place Bargemon. Recent expansions have created a new public space. It spans 20,000 square meters. This area stretches between the Old Port and the Hôtel Dieu. It’s now the largest esplanade in the city.
So, as you walk along Rue Villeneuve, remember the story of the City Hall. It’s a story of survival, adaptation, and enduring civic pride. Rue Villeneuve offers a glimpse into the heart of Marseille’s history. It is a history shaped by revolution, war, and the unwavering spirit of its people.