A bustling avenue a vibrant heart. This is Belgrano in Buenos Aires. Named after Manuel Belgrano a key figure in Argentina’s independence. He designed the national flag. Belgrano the barrio itself was founded much later in 1855. The Buenos Aires government fearing disputes over land expropriated from Juan Manuel de Rosas’s relatives. They established a new town on that land. They cleverly named it Belgrano. The town boomed. It quickly became a city. For a few weeks in 1880 Belgrano even served as the nation’s capital. This was due to a dispute between the national government and Buenos Aires province. The law declaring Buenos Aires the federal capital was issued here in Belgrano.
Belgrano isn’t just one place. It’s a collection of distinct areas. There is the main area filled with apartment buildings. There’s Belgrano R a leafy suburb with English architecture. Then there is Buenos Aires’ Chinatown. Avenida Cabildo the main thoroughfare pulses with life. Cafes grocery stores movie theaters and boutiques line its sidewalks. Weekends are especially lively. Porteños from across the city come to shop and stroll.
The neighborhood’s densest housing is near Cabildo. Luxury apartment buildings surround the Universidad de Belgrano. West of Cramer Avenue lies Belgrano R. This is a quieter residential area with large homes and spacious backyards. Many wealthy Argentines and expats live here. Several embassies are located here. Expensive bilingual schools also call Belgrano R home. Belgrano C houses Buenos Aires’ Chinatown. It’s full of Asian restaurants and specialty grocery stores.
Barrancas de Belgrano a lush park designed by Carlos Thays is a major attraction. It spans several blocks. High-rise buildings overlook it. Plaza Manuel Belgrano holds a regular artisan fair. Especially vibrant on weekends. A small bust of Manuel Belgrano stands in the center. The Inmaculada Concepción church known as La Redonda is a local landmark. Its circular design makes it unique. Many weddings are celebrated there. The Larreta Museum focuses on Spanish art. It’s in the former residence of writer Enrique Larreta. It features a beautiful Andalusian garden. The Sarmiento Historical Museum exhibits objects from former presidents Domingo Faustino Sarmiento and Nicolás Avellaneda. It’s in what used to be Belgrano’s town hall. This is where the national congress met while Belgrano was the capital. The Barrancas de Belgrano the older river terraces are nearby. The Estadio de Excursionistas the local football team’s stadium is also in Lower Belgrano. Though Nuñez is known for River Plate its stadium actually sits within Belgrano’s boundaries. Belgrano a vibrant neighborhood a rich history. A place where past and present intertwine.