“Üzümleri ile meşhurmuş burası.” That’s what they used to say about Bağlarbaşı.
Welcome to Bağlarbaşı Mahallesi a neighborhood on Istanbul’s Anatolian side. Its name literally translates to “head of the vineyards”. Imagine this area covered in lush grapevines. Those vineyards were the heart of Bağlarbaşı. They fueled its economy with countless varieties of grapes.
Bağlarbaşı is conveniently located close to Kadıköy and Üsküdar. The neighborhood is also near the Bosphorus Bridge. This makes it a busy hub on the Anatolian side.
Nuhkuyusu Caddesi is Bağlarbaşı’s main street. It is one of Üsküdar’s most well-known streets. Modest apartment buildings line the street and its surroundings. Historically Bağlarbaşı had a significant Greek and Armenian population. Their presence shaped the area’s culture.
Even today you can find minority schools and churches actively used. Several important institutions call Bağlarbaşı home. Capitol AVM Marmara University Faculty of Theology and Üsküdar University are here. You’ll also find the Zeynep Kamil Women’s and Children’s Diseases Training and Research Hospital.
Bağlarbaşı is also known for its large cemeteries. Karacaahmet Cemetery Bağlarbaşı Jewish Cemetery and Bağlarbaşı Armenian Cemetery are all located here. The M5 Üsküdar-Sultanbeyli Metro Line also passes through this area.
Many non-Muslim citizens have lived here for years. Armenians Greeks and Turks have coexisted peacefully. This diverse community has influenced Bağlarbaşı’s architecture.
In the back streets you can still find buildings from the late Ottoman period. Some date back to the early years of the Turkish Republic. Some buildings need serious repair but thankfully some have been restored.
Bağlarbaşı was once home to the Beyleroğlu Theatre. It showcased works by Western writers. It also hosted various concerts. Sadly no traces of it remain today. Agop Beyleryan a wealthy jeweler founded the theater. He loved the arts especially theater. This initiative thrived in the 1900s.
After its establishment other theater companies visited Bağlarbaşı. Muslim audiences had the opportunity to watch plays. Bağlarbaşı became a special place for the arts. Restrictions in the Ottoman Empire were slowly lifted here.
Kösem Sultan commissioned the Çinili Cami complex. This complex included a mosque a public fountain a bath and educational facilities. The Sehzade Abdulmecit Efendi Mansion is another important structure. It is located in Bağlarbaşı Grove. Alexandre Vallury designed it. The Koç Group has recently supported the mansion which hosts various exhibitions.
The Surp Garabet Church is another key landmark. Its history dates back to the 1550s. It has been repeatedly burned destroyed and repaired. During the construction of the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque Armenian masters from Van and Muş came to Istanbul. Koca Sinan the architect brought them. To serve their religious needs the Surp Garabet Church was redesigned. They worshiped here until the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque was completed. They also restored the historical building.
The Profiti İlya is another church in Bağlarbaşı. It dates back to the 1800s during the reign of 2.Mahmut. However some sources suggest a structure existed here earlier. This church is currently not in use.
The Balyan family served the Ottoman Empire for years. They were architects who passed down their skills from father to son. They designed many buildings during the empire’s final years. The Balyan family also lived in Bağlarbaşı.
The Kalfayan Armenian School still educates students today. It once served as an orphanage and a school for girls. The school continues to provide valuable services. Bağlarbaşı’s cuisine is also diverse. It offers a blend of Eastern and Western flavors.
Sadly Bağlarbaşı has not been preserved as well as it should have been. Many Istanbul residents are unaware of its rich history. Bağlarbaşı is a treasure trove of stories waiting to be discovered.