“Passage” feels more like a name than a description at the Passage des Antonins. It is more an extremely narrow street. It links Place Saint Jean to Rue de la Bombarde.
The Passage des Antonins is more than just a shortcut. It echoes with tales of emperors and healers. Let’s step back in time and explore. This passage was once part of the Cloître Saint Jean. During the Middle Ages, it ended blindly at the rampart of Rue de la Bombarde. Imagine it. A dead end offering no escape.
Hadrian, a Roman emperor, lived in Lyon around 121 and 122. He restored aqueducts. He also gave the theater and amphitheater some much-needed attention. The Antonine dynasty itself ruled Rome from 96 to 192 AD. It’s a period of relative stability and prosperity in Roman history.
This passage may owe its name to a legendary temple. The temple was supposedly located where the cathedral now stands. It honored Antoninus Pius. He was Roman Emperor from 138 to 161. This emperor never actually visited Lugdunum. That detail may disappoint some of you.
A more probable origin story involves a seigneury. It was known as the Antonins during the Middle Ages. Before its association with the Antonins, it was called Rue de Talaru.
Modern houses line the passage’s west side. These are a consequence of a catastrophe in 1931. The disaster caused old houses on Rue Tramassac to collapse. Today, the Passage des Antonins features the Saint Jean parish cure. You can also find a painting restoration workshop here. An architect has an office on the street. An artisan works in the traboule.
But who were the Antonins? The Hospital Brothers of Saint Anthony. They dedicated themselves to caring for victims. These victims suffered from a mysterious illness. It was known as Saint Anthony’s fire. They were like an early version of today’s medical NGOs.
These brothers provided meat and good bread. They also used balms with anti-inflammatory properties. Amazingly, gangrenous limbs would simply fall off. The Antonins became known as excellent doctors. Even popes sought their service.
Ultimately, this passage reminds us of Lyon’s long history. It tells a story of Roman emperors, religious orders, and urban renewal. It is more than just a way to get from one place to another. The Passage des Antonins embodies Lyon’s rich cultural heritage.